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Penang Street Food – A Gastronomic Journey Up North

December 1, 2009 | 20,223 views
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I did promise a post on Penang’s famous street foods, didn’t I? I tell you, nothing beats Penang when it comes to street fare. Not even my beloved hometown of Ipoh. Every corner, every junction, and almost on every single row of shoplots on the island, you’re bound to bump into a coffee shop, hawker centre, or at the very least, a make-shift hawker stall under some shady trees.

Kapitan Claypot Biryani Chicken

Kapitan’s Claypot Biryani Chicken (RM7/USD2) – Not exactly a POT, but a single serving of this can net you euphoria, nevertheless!

I do not know where or how to start off with, for the 2 days 1 night ‘Makan’ tour (read : gluttons at work) had us almost clutching our stomach and begging for some form of respite. Only to be duly served with more and more scrumptious food, completely devastating our plans for a much slimmer beginning to the new year. 😉

Kapitan Badam Milk

You MUST try this lovely, warm concoction of ground almond with spices, nuts and fruits and fresh cow’s milk

I was back to Kapitan on Lebuh Chulia (Chulia Street) for I just can’t forget the taste of the aromatic, creamy and smooth Badam Milk (or Almond Milk), boiled and served at a stall parked at the side of this Indian-Muslim restaurant. Yeah, a glass full of nourishing and no doubt, fattening (who cares?!) warm fresh milk with mild almond flavour, before our meal. Top that!

Kapitan Tandoori Naan

A glass of Badam Milk (RM2.50/USD0.70), and a serving of Tandoori Chicken  with Garlic Naan (RM7/USD2)

Kapitan serves some mean Biryani rice, full of flavours from the herbs and spices, and served in a most unconventional claypot (that resembled more of a bowl, than anything else). With a choice of chicken or mutton, we picked the former for Zmin does not take mutton. Nor beef. Nor raw fish for that matter. I Am So Mean. =P

Anyway, the Tandoori Chicken at Kapitan’s tasted a tad too salty, possibly from the red-tinged marinade, but paired well with the fluffy Garlic Naan. The mint sauce and a sweet/spicy chili sauce completed the ensemble, and not forgetting a side serving of dhal curry for to moisten the bread. Or you can request for any type of curries you’re in favour of, at no extra charge.

Kimberley Street CCF, CKT

Kimberley Street Hawker Delights – Mboy’s favourite Chee Cheong Fun, and the crowd’s favourite Char Koay Teow

Kimberley Street in the heart of the city is lined with many hawker stalls, each promoting their brand of incomparable Penang Street Food. From the usual suspects of Char Koay Teow, and Chee Cheong Fun to the delightfully braised and brimming with flavours chicken thighs, wings, feet, egg and all, then capping the feast with a bowl of sweet soup dessert, Penang style.

Kimberley Street

The braised chicken parts in dark soy sauce, to be served as it is, or with some noodles. The braised chicken feet was tremendously soft, gelatinous and flavoursome.

The Chee Cheong Fun (steamed rolled rice noodles) in Penang is unlike what the southerners routinely have. Here, the Chee Cheong Fun is served with a side of, or sometimes drizzled/doused with thick, pungent and briny prawn paste (he ko), and a dollop of spicy sambal (a condiment with ground chillies, and sometimes with a squeeze of lime juice), then liberally sprinkled with toasted sesame seeds.

Back then, I was very, very accustomed to the Ipoh’s way of serving the noodles, which is either with a combination of chili sauce and a dark reddish sweet sauce, or with gravies such as curry (some even with pig’s skin or wild boar’s meat) or mushroom/minced pork combination. So imagine the look of horror on my face back then when I was presented with a plate of rolled up and cut into small bite-sized chunks of CCF (that’s Chee Cheong Fun), and a thick and black sauce at the side.

Kimberley Street Sweet Soups

The ‘Tong Sui’ or sweet soup served by Traditional Home of Dessert on Kimberley Street

But things changed, my palate finally outgrew the initial rejection of having my smooth CCF with prawn paste. And after awhile, I started to accept the Penang style of CCF, and even developed a sense of fondness for them. And the ensuing cravings, every now and then. (Now tell me, where in Ipoh can I get my CCF served with He Ko?!)

The Char Koay Teow (Fried flat rice noodles with eggs, prawns and cockles) fared reasonably well, but not the best I have tasted on the island. I love the Pulau Tikus wet market’s version at night, and to some extent Ah Leng’s pricier offering as well. The Lorong Selamat and Macalister Road’s Sister’s versions were both out of my books, sadly.

And talking about Char Koay Teow, back then, I fell in love with the one in BB Coffee Shop next to Sunshine Square, the shop that also sells the Penang Road’s Assam Laksa. I was wondering, is the shop still there?

The Tong Sui, or sweet soup desserts were diluted, probably from the addition of too much ice cubes. But the sweetened ginkgo nuts (Peh Koh Thng) version was good, and not cloyingly sweet. The New Lane Hawker Centre next to Sunway Hotel in town still houses my favourite Tong Sui stall in Penang.

Kuan Yin Temple

To rid us from the sins of gluttony, we prayed and we prayed @ Goddess of Mercy/Kuan Yin Temple on Jln Masjid Kapitan Keling

Seow Fong Lye Penang Chee Cheong Fun

Look at those ultra-thick prawn paste from possibly the MOST famous CCF stall in the whole of Penang!

The morning after – We crawled out of our beds (a most budget option, for we did not make any reservations prior to embarking on our trip – Wanna know where?) early in the morning, and ventured to Seow Fong Lye on Lorong Macalister. Past experience was a lesson learnt, ensuring an early-to-rise motto embedded into our minds. But by 9.30am, the coffee shop was already packed to the brim! Seas of people were seen lining up at the CCF stall that we aimed for (and the stall that I regrettably missed in the previous trip), while the Char Koay Kak (Fried radish cakes with bean sprouts, eggs, and crunchy preserved mustard) stall was equally as famous.

Seow Fong Lye Penang Chee Cheong Fun2

FINALLY. One MUST be thick-faced, and brace the relentless wait and daggering stares for a chance at the prized yet most simple hawker fare, the humble Chee Cheong Fun

The wait came to about 30 minutes. Or probably more, for we took turns waiting like vultures at the stall (to no avail), then I braced the stand and wait spell over at the Char Koay Kak stall. Then firmly seated at our table, nobody came to take our orders for the drinks. Sigh ….. But all was well eventually, for after some serious (and shameless) naggings, I carried myself  the two plates of CCF back to our table, but not after everything else was nearly polished off.

The most concentrated of prawn paste, and a piquant sambal drenched half of the servings of steamed rice noodles roll (two rolls per serving), and the CCF was disappointingly doused with too much fried shallots oil. But the fragrant toasted sesame seeds added a whole dimension to the bland yet smooth noodles, and the gravy was hands down the star of the show. Not for the faint hearted this one, for if you do not like the strong, pungent-flavoured paste, you’d stop at your first bite.

Toast with Egg, Char Koay Kak

The Lady was pleasant, and accommodating. Unlike some other ‘Big-shot-of-a-Char Koay Teow-seller-with-an-attitude’. Seow Fong Lye also serves very good toast cut into small blocks, spread with butter and kaya, dipped into the half-boiled eggs.

Char Koay Kak Seow Fong Lye

Wok Hei? Check. Crunchy bean sprouts and minced Choy Pou (preserved radish)? Check. Cheap? Oh Hell Yeah.

The wait for the Char Koay Kak was equally as daunting, so do not put all hopes in this or the CCF if you’re on the brink of starvation. Go get some toasts, or some other noodles to line your hollow gut.

But well worth the wait, the Char Koay Kak was tasty, and fried with such ‘wok hei’ (heat of the wok) you can taste the smoky, and fragrance emanating from the banana leaf placed underneath.

Seow Fong Lye CKT, Wantan Mee

The forgettable Char Koay Teow, and horrendous Wantan Mee.

By all means, skip the Wantan Mee. For it was reeking of alkaline taste from the lye water (kan sui) used in the production of the noodles, and the meagre portion of Char Siew (2 pieces), Shredded Chicken (pitiful strips), and Wantan (2 pathetic dumplings) served was not the most impressive to the senses.

But consider ordering the toasts with butter and kaya (sweet & fragrant egg jam) with half-boiled eggs, or the Western-style of omelettes (read the previous post here) for a lighter meal. Or when you’re already on all fours, seeking for any grubs to ward off that grumbling tummy.

Seow Fong Lye Penang Chee Cheong Fun3

And this post merely touches the tip of the iceberg. The chopped scallions on the Koay Teow Thng (Noodles Soup). Or maybe the toasted sesame seeds on the Chee Cheong Fun. 😉

There are countless other good finds in Penang that will render your trip here worthwhile, and fulfilling. Don’t resort to shopping malls’ food (like us, hehehe .. sometimes), posh restaurants/bistros/cafes, or (SHOCK!) fast food outlets when you’re in Penang. Go out, drive around town, look for the the most charming establishment at the most unassuming corner of the streets. Follow the crowd (not blindly), read from the amazingly-detailed Penang food blogs, but most important of all, trust your foodie instincts.

Kapitan Restaurant
(Claypot Chicken Biryani, Tandoori Chicken, Badam Milk)
93, Lebuh Chulia,
10200 Penang,
Malaysia
Opens for business : 24 hours a day

Kimberley Street Hawker Stalls
(Chee Cheong Fun, Char Koay Teow, Tong Sui)
Lebuh Kimberley,
10100 Penang,
Malaysia
Only for dinner/supper, from evening until late night.

Kedai Kopi Seow Fong Lye
(Chee Cheong Fun, Char Koay Kak, Egg Toast)
94C, Lorong Macalister,
11400 Penang, Malaysia
The Chee Cheong Fun stall operate from early morning, until noon.
But during peak season (read : Public holidays & weekends) the noodles may run out before 12pm.

Here’s the GOOGLE MAP TO ALL THREE PLACES I reviewed above.

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Categories
Penang Food
Tags
Almond Milk, Breakfast, Char Kuey Teow, Desserts, Egg toast, Garlic Naan, Kapitan Restaurant Penang, Kimberley Street, Nasi Biryani, Penang Chee Cheong Fun, Penang Food, Seow Fong Lye, Street Food, Tandoori Chicken
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46 Responses to “Penang Street Food – A Gastronomic Journey Up North”

  1. IMCurtain.com says:
    December 1, 2009 at 7:37 pm

    Penang Street Food – Prawn Paste Chee Cheong Fun, Kimberley Street Hawker Foods & Kapitan Biryani | Motormouth From Ipoh – A Malaysian Food Blog…

    BEST of Penang hawker food, from the prawn paste chee cheong fun to char koay teow, and claypot nasi biryani and badam milk to sweet desserts and more. A paradise for food lovers!…

  2. Min says:
    December 1, 2009 at 8:15 pm

    I still like the Penang’s CCF the most, really can’t find it in Ipoh…especially the Seow Fong Lye one lo 🙂

    [Reply]

    KCA Reply:
    December 1st, 2009 at 9:16 pm

    haha… u have the same taste as Mboy lo… *wink* *wink* 😛

    [Reply]

    mboy Reply:
    December 1st, 2009 at 11:05 pm

    Hahaha…Definitely agree! My all-time fav CCF is always the Penang version! …Hahaha..We shud have eat 1 plate each instead of sharing hor .. =).

    [Reply]

    J2Kfm Reply:
    December 2nd, 2009 at 1:41 pm

    Now we see birds of the same feather flocking together. Or something. Hehehehe …..

  3. kenwooi says:
    December 1, 2009 at 9:01 pm

    yeah i wont deny it.. haha.. penang surely has good food..!
    i love the chendol at penang street! =D
    .-= kenwooi´s last blog ..Banana People! =-.

    [Reply]

    J2Kfm Reply:
    December 2nd, 2009 at 1:42 pm

    Me too. That Penang Rd Teochew Cendol remains my favourite, even edging out Melaka’s and Taiping’s.

    [Reply]

  4. sc says:
    December 1, 2009 at 9:48 pm

    PG hawker fare is just so drool worthy..lurve it to bits!!

    [Reply]

  5. Jessen says:
    December 1, 2009 at 10:35 pm

    Too bad I’m going Singapore for my holiday, can’t taste the Penang food you recommended. Fear not, I’ll go Penang for my next holiday. :p

    [Reply]

  6. Sean says:
    December 2, 2009 at 12:33 am

    yikes, what a parade of temptations! brilliant … am returning to penang at the end of the month for a campus reunion, so am looking for all the up-to-date info on places to eat around town 😀

    [Reply]

    J2Kfm Reply:
    December 2nd, 2009 at 1:44 pm

    Wait, you’re from USM as well?
    We never had any reunions til now, though we graduated only 3 years ago.
    How sad …

    [Reply]

  7. hApPy HaPpY says:
    December 2, 2009 at 6:58 am

    I will back to penang soon 10 days time and will
    enjoy the food there. Nice photos you have taken. Well done.
    .-= hApPy HaPpY´s last blog ..<a href=\ =-.

    [Reply]

  8. NKOTB says:
    December 2, 2009 at 8:16 am

    Kimberly Street CCF is my favourite CCF in Penang… in fact, Father-in-law used to buy that CCF for us for snacks!! Oh, miss it very much!!! 🙂

    [Reply]

    J2Kfm Reply:
    December 2nd, 2009 at 1:50 pm

    Yeah, and I like the Delima’s version equally. But the one at Seow Fong Lye was really good, esp the gooey prawn paste.

    [Reply]

  9. Little Inbox says:
    December 2, 2009 at 8:49 am

    Tandoori chicken and naan, that’s hubby yelling for, haha…

    [Reply]

  10. Cynthia says:
    December 2, 2009 at 8:54 am

    Thanks for visiting. What a feast your blog is. I am so excited to explore it. Gosh I’m hungry just looking at those chicken feet, and the noodles, and the bread with the eggs – everything!

    [Reply]

    J2Kfm Reply:
    December 2nd, 2009 at 1:53 pm

    Hi Cynthia. Penang is a state in Malaysia that’s just bursting with new eateries, and tried-and-tested greats, when it comes to street food.

    [Reply]

  11. J says:
    December 2, 2009 at 9:28 am

    *drool*
    What a delicious list. 🙂 🙂 🙂
    (Ooh, and I love the “chop,chop” photo – is cool!)
    .-= J´s last blog ..Ristorante La Buca @ Rimini, Italy =-.

    [Reply]

  12. lingzie says:
    December 2, 2009 at 9:33 am

    yummmmm seow fong lye’s CCF is my absolute favourite CCF in penang!! (yes i like the “he ko”-ey pungent-ness!)
    and oooo that badam milk! is there any wonder why the seams of my pants are threatening to burst? lol!!
    .-= lingzie´s last blog ..Sa Rang Chae Korean Restaurant @ New Bob Centre, Penang =-.

    [Reply]

  13. thenomadGourmand says:
    December 2, 2009 at 10:05 am

    Penang..foooooddd… cannnttttt waiiiittttt…
    .-= thenomadGourmand´s last blog ..I’m heading to Penang & I want…Almond dessert – "Heng Jin", at New Lane/Kimberly Street =-.

    [Reply]

  14. email2me says:
    December 2, 2009 at 11:04 am

    You make me crave for my home town food! =.=||
    .-= email2me´s last blog ..International Celebrity Chef Martin Yan Cooking Live in KL Starhill Gallery =-.

    [Reply]

  15. SimpleGirl says:
    December 2, 2009 at 11:08 am

    going to Penang next week….can’t wait to taste the great food there…

    [Reply]

    J2Kfm Reply:
    December 2nd, 2009 at 2:22 pm

    Oh envy you lah…. lucky devil. I wanna go again, but thinking of the dreaded jam for 6 hours while on the way back, it’s kinda scary. Choose wkdays next time.

    [Reply]

  16. Duckie says:
    December 2, 2009 at 11:37 am

    looks like penang is still food heaven!!! so glad i’m a penangaite!!!

    [Reply]

  17. iamthewitch says:
    December 2, 2009 at 12:21 pm

    There’s one more CCF stall very famous in Island Glades! That’s MY top choice… Ever tried that? Some corner shop by the name of Genting or whatever. Haha… Oh I can’t stand the smell of Almond milk! Argghhh… 😛
    .-= iamthewitch´s last blog ..New Izakaya menu at ENJU, Prince Hotel =-.

    [Reply]

    J2Kfm Reply:
    December 2nd, 2009 at 2:21 pm

    I know that one! That was the stall that introduced me to Penang CCF! Lorong Delima or something right?

    [Reply]

  18. ck lam says:
    December 2, 2009 at 1:50 pm

    Glad you found the badam milk. A cup of it is good before bedtime.
    .-= ck lam´s last blog ..Italian @ Cugini Trattoria Pizzeria, Singapore =-.

    [Reply]

    J2Kfm Reply:
    December 2nd, 2009 at 1:56 pm

    We actually bumped into it accidentally. Hahaha, hence we had a glass BEFORE our dinner.
    I’ll be sure to return for more in the near future.
    And those Biryani too.

    [Reply]

  19. xin says:
    December 2, 2009 at 2:56 pm

    oh man, i so feel like having some of the briyani rice and and braised chicken parttttts *drool*
    .-= xin´s last blog ..Practise Safe Sex to prevent AIDS with Quarterback Condoms on World AIDS Day. =-.

    [Reply]

  20. Che-Cheh says:
    December 2, 2009 at 4:58 pm

    The photos are so tantalizing! It’s killing me slowly. Haha

    I need to plan a makan trip to Penang & Ipoh.

    [Reply]

  21. fufu says:
    December 2, 2009 at 7:17 pm

    i want chee cheong fun ><

    [Reply]

  22. Selba says:
    December 2, 2009 at 8:19 pm

    I really want to visit Penang….. and I hope that I manage to fly this middle of month but still not confirm yet….

    Must try all the wonderful and delicious food there 🙂

    The last picture is interesting.. how come the man use plastic to cover his hand that hold the knife instead the food that he hold with his bare hands? Or this not a hygiene purpose of using the plastic? hehehe…

    [Reply]

  23. tekkaus says:
    December 3, 2009 at 2:27 am

    My pick? It gotta be the garlic nan and tandori chicken. :p

    You gotta try triple cheese garlice nun. 😀 Simply delicious.

    [Reply]

  24. taufulou says:
    December 3, 2009 at 10:37 am

    aiks..after see you post feel pai seh..being from penang but the place you went i have not been b4..thanks for sharing lei..will go back hunt this few places next round..:d

    [Reply]

  25. Elin says:
    December 3, 2009 at 12:26 pm

    James..that claypot briyani is so mouthwatering that I must go and try it out when I am in Penang the next time. Looks good! 🙂 Thanks for sharing..If Claire see this…she will be pestering we go together to that place LOL!
    .-= Elin´s last blog ..Oat Base Mini Pizza With Mushroom Topping =-.

    [Reply]

  26. Simon says:
    December 3, 2009 at 8:31 pm

    About the penang ccf, i had one before at tai su keok (big tree foot), i threw it away after a bite lol

    [Reply]

  27. babe_kl says:
    December 4, 2009 at 10:30 am

    feel like going to penang now for a bite of everything. i noticed they do serve soft boiled eggs inside teacup!
    .-= babe_kl´s last blog ..Review: Hidden Porky Goodness at Kamimura Japanese Restaurant =-.

    [Reply]

  28. Bangkok Lane Mee Goreng & Char Koay Teow Opposite Pulau Tikus Police Station | BuzzBirdy.com says:
    June 24, 2010 at 6:02 pm

    […] fried-with-perfection CKT from Lorong Selamat, Macalister Road, Penang Road, Pulau Tikus market, Kimberley Street, Ah Leng’s, and many more. But repeated visits to the same […]

  29. TasteHongKong says:
    August 31, 2010 at 3:44 pm

    If I get any chances to visit Penang again, I shall go beyond Persiaran Gurney (???????), and hopefully to visit most, if not all, of your recommendations.

    By the way, thanks for dropping by and sharing the information.

    [Reply]

    J2Kfm Reply:
    August 31st, 2010 at 10:03 pm

    You’re most welcomed. Your site is loaded with good information as well. Keep it up.

    [Reply]

  30. Batu Lanchang Food Complex - Penang Street Food Series (1/5) | Motormouth From Ipoh - A Malaysian Food Blog says:
    October 2, 2010 at 12:01 pm

    […] seemingly good, but personally I found that to be nothing special. Especially not when compared to Seow Fong Lye‘s 30 minutes+ version on Lorong Macalister. Or even Kimberley Street’s Chee Cheong Fun […]

  31. Soon Yuen Coffee Shop (Koay Teow Soup & Chee Cheong Fun) - Penang Street Food Series (3/5) | Motormouth From Ipoh - A Malaysian Food Blog says:
    October 6, 2010 at 3:42 pm

    […] the full story on Soon Yuen, and how the Chee Cheong Fun here can give Seow Fong Lye a run for their money […]

  32. O&S Restaurant @ Paramount Garden, PJ - Char Kuey Teow, Penang Chee Cheong Fun & Yong Tau Foo | Motormouth From Ipoh - Malaysian Food & Travel Blog says:
    September 18, 2011 at 12:57 pm

    […] and garnished with fried shallots). This was, however, an over-hyped replica of the real deal. Try the one on Lorong Macalister in Penang if you really intend to go for the […]

  33. The Ultimate Penang Street Food & Street Arts Experience 2013 says:
    August 25, 2013 at 4:52 am

    […] Seow Fong Lye Coffee Shop – The best Penang chee cheong fun (Steamed rice noodle rolls with a large volume of shrimp pulp […]

  34. Homestay di Melaka says:
    January 10, 2014 at 5:32 pm

    Kaki ayam looks so tempting 🙂

    [Reply]

  35. En Almond says:
    August 2, 2018 at 11:44 pm

    sedap lauk-lauk dia

    [Reply]

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