Wong Koh Kee Restaurant @ Concubine Lane, Ipoh Old Town
July 7, 2010 | 16,332 views
A pale shadow of its old self, Lorong Panglima (fondly remembered as Concubine Lane, or Yi Lai Hong in Cantonese) is still attracting the shutterbugs and foodies until this very day.
I always tell my friends, relatives, or readers who took the effort and time to send mails to me (hehe, if you insist …) that the BEST place to start a food run in Ipoh, has to be Old Town. No, NOT the Old Town White Coffee outlets that have mushroomed everywhere, but the area aptly named as old town, yet actually without a clear definition of its perimeters and deserving Heritage status. Although somewhere somehow, half a million ringgit is being pumped to spiff up Concubine Lane, the infamous lane of Lorong Panglima with a rich and interesting history behind its moniker.
Wong Koh Kee Restaurant @ Concubine Lane in Old Town – With close to eight decades of legacy, this traditional Chinese style of ‘chu char’ restaurant is still standing strong, attracting the working crowd on a daily basis.
Truth is, the lane was notorious as an opium haunt, aside from the widely-believed raunchy stories of keeping the mistresses in the now-dilapidated two-storeys pre-war buildings lining both sides of the very narrow lane. As claimed by Wong Koh Kee, the 90-years old retired owner of Wong Koh Kee Restaurant in an article featured in The Star (read the article HERE) – “A story that goes round is that opium smokers would always say they are going to their mistresses instead of to the opium den when asked by friends” he noted.
On a personal note; it does not matter whether this lane was packed with sleazy activities or not back in the olden days. People from all walks of life come to Concubine Lane for a very different reason now; Eating at Wong Koh Kee Restaurant ….
My absolute favourite Gu Lou Yuk (Sweet And Sour Pork) in Ipoh from Wong Koh Kee. Very different from the others, you can see the hollowed centre filled with the lean pork, enveloped by a crunchy batter coated with the glistening tangy and strangely ‘buttery’ sauce.
I wrote about Wong Koh Kee once back in 2008. Since then, we had our lunch here occasionally. Not as frequent as I had hoped for, as the place can get packed in an instant. The merely half-a-lot size of the restaurant is one of the contributing factor, and the scary lunch crowd in Old Town is the other. Aside from serving dishes with rice (they are all on display on the board at the wall – refer to the fourth picture down), you can also opt for their individual servings of rice with your choice of dish, at about RM4/USD1.20 onwards.
Sam Wong Dan aka Steamed Three Yolks Egg – A velvety smooth combination of steamed chicken egg, salted egg, and century egg. Delectably smooth, even your grandma will approve of this!
We almost always ordered the same dishes at Wong Koh Kee. Crispy Pei Pa Chicken, Sweet and Sour Pork, Sai Yeung Choy (Watercress) stir fried with Siew Yoke (roasted pork)/Chap (mixed pig’s offals), and Sam Wong Dan (Steamed Three Yolks Egg). Until we have grown weary of the same dishes, and kept wondering what else to order.
The inability of reading Chinese somehow has always been a blockade of sorts. Since all the dishes are listed in Chinese on the board with their respective prices. And asking for their recommendations will eventually lead to the same old choices. 🙂
Not that I am complaining though. For you can see almost everyone orders the same dishes. Just glance at your neighbouring tables and point away, in case you’re not sure what the dish is called.
Stir Fried Watercress (Sai Yeung Choy) with Roasted Pork – A rarity, since not many eateries cook the watercress this way.
Since this was an entirely different visit (I brought my family on an off-day), I picked almost the same dishes, but an additional Hung Siew Yue Tau (Braised Dee-fried Fish Head with Vegetables) to please both of my grandmas’ appetite. You know how the older one gets, the more jaded the tastebud is.
All the dishes were treated with such a home-cooked manner, redolent of ‘wok hei’ (breath/heat of the wok) and generous use of lard oil (no fritters though) to up the ante, so to speak. Close to 80 years of operation speaks volume, currently Wong Koh Kee is being run by the son instead.
The Sweet And Sour Pork (Gu Lou Yuk) at Wong Koh Kee is still my favourite throughout Ipoh, though I have to give credits to Sun Marpoh, Menglembu’s Mun Ji, and Top Wok for their effort in dethroning Koh Kee’s. You can really taste the difference, a faint hint of pungency probably from the use of lard in the cooking, and the not-too-thick-nor-watery tomato sauce-based gravy was top notch. And the sheer crispiness of the batter-coated pork is a clear winner.
The Steamed Three Yolks Egg (Sam Wong Dan) may look scarily greasy with a layer of oil on top of the wobbly egg custard steamed to perfection. But one bite (or one sip?) of the steamed egg and you’ll swoon in surprise. Such a simple dish, combining three types of eggs (chicken egg, century egg and salted egg) in one dish with bits of minced pork within, with chopped scallions and finely-minced fried garlic on top.
The Stir Fried Watercress (Sai Yeung Choy) with Roasted Pork disappointed us this round though. Drenched/drowned in oil, the cuts of roasted pork was soggy and too fat. Still, the watercress was good; with its naturally fibrous and crunchy nature.
I could not find the BEST angle to shoot the deep-fried fish head, already split in half. But trust me, the fish head was more than sufficient for the five of us!
The plate of Hung Siew Yue Tau came in a maddening huge portion. I was about to order five dishes for the five of us, then was stopped by the man. Then we knew why …..
The fleshy fish head (grandma’s guess was it was a grouper’s, but we had doubts) was deep-fried until crispy, then braised in a delicious gravy with lots of mixed vegetables, mushrooms, fried beancurd (tau kwa) and minced garlic. I remember the cabbages, scallions and leeks. But the others ….. I was too busy picking the bones, squishy brain matters and such to care. 🙂
Slightly tasting of muddy/earthy tones, a common grouse with freshwater fishes, this may not be everyone’s favourite. But the plate was walloped clean at the end of the meal. And grandmas burped with satisfaction. After all, dining in Wong Koh Kee brought so much memories from the yesteryears; when I was first introduced to good Chinese food by my late grandfather back in the 80’s.
Thanks to Mum, now I know what to order the next time around !!! I seriously need a lesson in reading Chinese.
Oh, no need to sweat over the drinks. Everyone gets the same Chinese tea.
A feast for five came to RM70/USD21.20, a reasonable amount to pay for a slice of heritage dining. After all, who knows what is going to happen to the eatery once the lane is being refurbished and the whole of Old Town listed in the development plans.
This type of “Lou Chiu Pai” (old brands) restaurants are few and far in between. Most would have succumbed to the pressure of development, and lost out to the challenges from the chic cafes, air-conditioned restaurants and overpriced bistros. Another similar outlet that comes to mind is Hung Kee Rice Shop on Cowan Street, next to the now defunct “Pat Kok Lau” (Yau Tet Shin Bazaar). This restaurant has been around since more than 70 years ago, and still operating. Though now is a pale shadow of its old self, the eatery attracts only the same old familiar faces.
There is also a charming corner lot restaurant on Jalan Pasar (a street that runs parallel to Lorong Panglima) named Tong Shuan, with the same ambience, and serving a seemingly limitless menu. You can request for your food to be cooked in any ways you desire, and they can improvise from your suggestions. We have our lunch there quite often, and maybe someday I will come out with a full review.
I was also told by my parents about a certain Chee Seng Restaurant on Clare Street or Jalan Mustapha al-Bakri, that was closed long ago. Anyone have heard of this place? Or any other classic eateries in Ipoh that you wanna share?
Don’t judge a book by its cover – An unassuming eatery at a back lane might just be the BEST restaurant you have ever visited!
WONG KOH KEE RESTAURANT
No 3, Lorong Panglima,
30000 Ipoh, Perak, Malaysia
Telephone : 605-241 9474, 6016-531 3826
Business hours : 10.30am – 3.00pm
Off-days not fixed.
Here’s a GOOGLE MAP to Wong Koh Kee Restaurant
Directions : Wong Koh Kee is situated at a back lane, beside All Inn Cafe (that serves hawker fares and sweet soup – tong sui desserts), and opposite of the famous Kong Heng Coffee Shop & Thean Chun Coffee Shop.
Nice..My very da very latest.. Bahaya!
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Love this place for its food and heritage feel! 🙂
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J2Kfm Reply:
July 7th, 2010 at 2:06 pm
Yeah, lunch here is a relaxing affair, feeling like our ancestors seated on the same chair and sipping tea, devouring the food.
If only the place is more spacious, to fit the huge crowd.
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it’s quite heartwarming to hear of places that survive for so many decades and are still beloved. wish i had a crystal ball to see whether this place can endure another 80 years (and outlive all of us!) 😀
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J2Kfm Reply:
July 7th, 2010 at 2:07 pm
80 years?! I doubt this place can stand another 10 more, with rapid renovations, development and $$ pumped into projects in Ipoh.
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Oh man. That photo of the glistening ku low yukk is taunting me…..
(What a great restaurant in a street with such a colourful past!)
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J2Kfm Reply:
July 7th, 2010 at 2:08 pm
Another Gu Lou Yuk lover huh? I can remember back then in the 80’s, when I was so enticed by Wong Koh Kee’s version, I pestered my parents to bring me there. To no avail …. Hahaha … the congestion due to the many banks and lawyer firms in old town are deterrents.
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J Reply:
July 7th, 2010 at 4:45 pm
Deifinitely! 😀
I have LOVED gu lou yok for as long as I can remember… but when I was younger, my parents always stopped me from eating it too much (because they said it’s unhealthy).
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Hard sell! Wakakaka…
People now comes here to eat and take pictures also. Love their sam wong dan the most.
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J2Kfm Reply:
July 7th, 2010 at 2:14 pm
I tried their Foo Yong Dan (omelette with various fillings) once, but came out too greasy.
Better stick to Sam Wong Dan instead.
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meow. super nice and delicious. I been there before , i miss the 3 wong dan!
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Gu Lou Yuk, wow~ Crispy and meaty….great! =)
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I only had the sai yong choy in soup form, never thought it can cook like that? Maybe that was some “younger” sai yong choy?
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J2Kfm Reply:
July 13th, 2010 at 4:15 pm
Erm, not fibrous or tough, the ‘sai yeong choy’ was soft and tasted like a cross between spinach and kangkung.
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hey James.. did u see us? we were there last Monday.. i wanted to post up the pictures last night.. lol.. Elin will be surprised to see this post.. she was telling me to take the back lanes as well.. unfortunately my pics turned out dark.. :p we had three dishes, two of them as mentioned above, the steamed egg and the watercress, for the fish, we ordered it ginger steamed song fish.. next time dont order this, countless bones here and there! Three of us with rice and tea cost RM35.. very cheap!
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J2Kfm Reply:
July 13th, 2010 at 4:14 pm
Hey claire, I was there on a Tuesday. Haha … how ironic huh?
A day’s apart. You ladies can drop me a line or a message when in old town, for I am always around this area.
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If I am not mistaken..that Chee Seng was along the Mcdonald row of shophouses.. closed many many years ago.. the one next to the Old Telecom, Soon Fatt is another loe chiew pai.. sells dim sum at night those days and the fattish type of fried koay teow …. best! Remember Diamond Restaurant.. er.. opposite this One Stop Car Accessories near Hume Street? That one also served the best dim sum those day.. my days.. lol..
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J2Kfm Reply:
July 13th, 2010 at 4:11 pm
Oh same row with McD. Thanks …. maybe mum got confused.
Soon Fatt belongs to the family of a friend of mine. Haha .. never knew that the place is a timeless classic. Are they still operating now?
Diamond Restaurant? No idea. I will ask my parents about the place. Same row with Embassy’s See See Heng Hor Hee, or the vegetarian restaurant opposite of Jack Fah (the kuih n tong sui shop)?
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At that time, I remember next to Diamond was Toong Seng another dim sum eatery that operated only at night. The other one was Kwong Chow, next to Jubilee, which was burnt down. The big fish ball was only 20sen then (1960’s)
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J2Kfm Reply:
July 13th, 2010 at 4:13 pm
Good good …. it’s good if these places are recorded somewhat, by writing or by photos.
Etched in memories ain’t enough, for we won’t have the slightest idea on how the places looked like back then.
On a side note, good to see FMS being renovated and re-opening in the near future.
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Ah.. my favourite is also gou lou yok bro! coming to Ipoh in Oct for friend’s wedding, Will do a research through your blogs on where to eat before going up
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i didnt explore old town much when i was there last year… so wanna go back again and enjoy the white coffee and do caves hopping… and you gotta bring me around for nice food!!
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J2Kfm Reply:
July 13th, 2010 at 4:08 pm
Sure lah … you remember to drop me a message first okay?
Old town’s perfect as a starter for a heritage trail.
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one of my fav lunch spot as well, i love the steamed fish with sauce paste
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Hung Kee Rice Shop serves some mean pig’s brain soup with steamed rice, do have a try.
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J2Kfm Reply:
July 13th, 2010 at 4:07 pm
Thanks Bob. Though it sounds rather icky to be having pig’s brains (!) instead of the other offals.
The place looks a little forlorn nowadays, as compared to Wong Koh Kee, Hung Wang teochew porridge restaurant on Jalan Leong Sin Nam, and even Hoong Tho in old town.
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That’s one of my favourite shop, ordering the same dishes again n again..
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oh my… semua i punya fav food!!
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It’s been a very long time since I last ate Gu Lou Yuk.. Really feel like eating it soon 😀 The Sam Wong Dan looks so nice, I like this dish very much and most of the time when I dine outside with family, we will repeat the same dishes too. Haha..
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J2Kfm
Got GPS location arr? My garmin can’t find lorong panglima.
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J2Kfm Reply:
July 9th, 2010 at 7:37 pm
Hi Yap, sorry. You just find Jalan Panglima, and walk from there. Or search for Kong Heng from your Garmin. It’s directly opposite of Kong Heng.
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i like Hung Siew Yue Tau but seems like it’s no longer fashionable to be on the menu anymore
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J2Kfm Reply:
July 9th, 2010 at 7:41 pm
Indeed. Hung Siew anything at all is very old school lah, certainly not a choice amongst the younger generations.
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The sweet sour pork looks yummy!! : )
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J2Kfm Reply:
July 9th, 2010 at 7:45 pm
Indeed, that is MY personal favourite in Ipoh, so that holds a lot of potential.
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ah…. sam wong dan.. my fav… just give me one sam wong dan and two bowl of rice… i can assure u i will finish them… asap… 😀 … the hung siew fish head is also one classic dish that i haf not had a long long.. time… maybe one day i will drag my family/frenss.. there to haf it again.. 🙂
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J2Kfm Reply:
July 13th, 2010 at 4:05 pm
Yup, the younger generations won’t be too keen on ordering fish heads, let alone a simply braised version. But I like fish heads, no matter they’re steamed, cook in curries, or deep-fried.
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Use to have one shop “chu chao” call, mun tin.. I cannot really recall the road name but it is the road behind KFC in near the Cathay and Lido cinema.
Nowadays I try Sun Hup Kee, at Jln Leong Sin Nam.. Have U had a go at this.. The 3 Wong tan is also not bad.. and while at it you can try the Claypot tofu, although the std, have drop quite a bit.. but it still serve differently compare to the similar dish at other outlets..
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J2Kfm Reply:
July 13th, 2010 at 4:03 pm
YES! Oh talk about Mun Tin and all memories come flooding over.
The road’s named Anderson Road, now Jalan Raja Musa Aziz.
This Mun Tin is a corner lot, almost at the position facing Nam Kew fried noodles restaurant – http://www.j2kfm.com/kedai-kopi-nam-kew-fried-noodles-seafood-ipoh/
I used to really really liked Mun Tin’s caramel egg custard back then, and their Char Siew rice. I wonder if anyone else remember this place?
Thanks CW Yee for the comment.
Sin Hup Kee yes, but never blogged about the restaurant. Usually we ta-pau the Kon Chin Gai (Pan fried chicken?) in a sticky sweet sauce, the 3 Wong Dan, Assam Fish.
I will write about the place soon enough.
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CW Yee Reply:
July 14th, 2010 at 3:09 pm
I never knew mun tin had caramel egg custard.. Is it the same type as Thein Chun in old town.. One more thing I miss to mention about mun tin, not sure if you try the “kai Lap fan” chicken cube rice, direct translation.. Damm that was good and I cannot find one that good anymore now.. Sun Hup Kee had the dish but no where near.. If you do come across a good one do blog about it so I can go.. Brings back old memories..
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J2Kfm Reply:
July 16th, 2010 at 4:02 pm
Oh you like Gai Lap Fan? Okay, sure. I have been having a few here and there, and at a very old coffee shop in old town named Tong Shuan.
Yup the exact same caramel egg custard. Back then, not many places do their own custards, or even offer them.
CW Yee Reply:
July 19th, 2010 at 3:52 pm
Where is this Tong Shuan near?? Quick tell me yummy can’t wait to try…
I love the first picture in this post! I even snapped a picture like that too somewhere in Ipoh Old Town last time:
http://adrianfoocapshots.blogspot.com/2009/07/ipohs-backstreet-perak.html
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Hi CW Yee, sorry threaded until 5 levels deep only. Hehe …
Tong Shuan is a very old coffee shop on Jalan Pasar in old town. If you come from Hugh Low street, turn right and you will see Nam Chau on your right, correct?
After that the first crossroad you come to will be Jalan Pasar-Jalan Bandar Timah. Tong Shuan is at the end of the row on your RIGHT. Since this is a one way road, make a big round at the next road; Jalan Panglima.
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This restaurant looks very promising. I love heritage (old-time) dining. So nostalgic and the dishes look homey. The first picture is awesome, love loooove looove heritage buildings that oozes age and grace.
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J2Kfm Reply:
July 30th, 2010 at 10:00 am
There are hundreds or maybe thousands of them in Penang.
If only the Ipoh administrative bodies decide to preserve these structures like how Penang managed to attain UNESCO Heritage status, that would be awesome.
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I think this is THE PLACE I keep telling my wife & daughter about. Those days, for lunch they pioneered the steamed ‘hak fei chow’ for RM 0.50 per fish. You can get a nice lunch for RM 1.50 with ‘hfc’, steamed egg & a plate of rice. Soup in free. Next Ipoh visit…..here we come.
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[…] places that I used to get acquainted with sweet and sour pork (Gu Lou Yuk); the other two being Wong Koh Kee and Sun Marpoh.Thus, it was no wonder that they still do their pork dishes so […]
Billiard is one among the game which is not restricted for any class of people but still the perception of people lies that the game is only for the high class society people.
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Anybody know where Wong Koh Kee moving to ??
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J2Kfm Reply:
May 14th, 2011 at 7:57 pm
Wait, they have closed?! I did not know this.
Anyone?
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The shop was closed since last year end until now.
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Anyone know what happen to this shop?
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J2Kfm Reply:
May 18th, 2011 at 11:37 pm
Hi Daphne, sorry I don’t have any idea. But I was there not too long ago. Maybe it was late last year?
If anyone has news about this, kindly tell. Thanks.
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the shop is open again liao, i was there yesterday..
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J2Kfm Reply:
May 24th, 2011 at 9:49 pm
Oh okay. That’s good to hear. Did you manage to find out why they were closed (if they really were)?
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[…] juicy texture instead of being deep fried to smithereens. Reminded me of Concubine Lane’s Wong Koh Kee’s braised fish head (“Hoong Siew Yue […]
I heard that the famous “cheong cheng” or sweet spicy tauchu sauce steam tilapia originate from here and they are very good at it.
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[…] on the top left photo houses one of the best old school ‘chu char’ place in Ipoh; Wong Koh Kee that dishes out an incomparable Sweet & Sour Pork, Crispy Roasted Chicken & Braised Fish […]