Kuala Kangsar Famous Laksa Pak Ngah
June 18, 2010 | 9,023 viewsFinally it’s the weekend again, eh? If you’re heaving a sigh of relief, rest assured you’re NOT alone on this. Yesterday, we went for a short excursion to Kuala Kangsar, the Royal Town of Perak situated about half an hour away from Ipoh. You can reach this town using the North-South highway, exiting at Kuala Kangsar/Gerik (Timur) toll exit, OR you can opt to use the trunk road that connects Chemor-Sungai Siput-Salak-Enggor-Kuala Kangsar. Scenic, yet a little mundane ……
The famous Laksa Pak Ngah of Kuala Kangsar; since 1955. That’s a couple of years BEFORE independence, people!
Earlier we had our lunch at Sudut Nyonya Restaurant; possibly the only Nyonya restaurant in town. Or anywhere outside of Ipoh in the state of Perak, for that matter. A satisfying meal nonetheless, we were still craving for more. I had the urge to try the popular Pak Ngah Laksa behind of Tsung Wah secondary school. Just ask anyone (especially your Malay friends) from Kuala Kangsar or beyond, and I’m sure most would agree that a visit to this royal town is never complete without a packet or two (or dozens of them, from what we saw) of Pak Ngah laksa back home ….
Restoran Pak Ngah Laksa; you’d be forgiven for thinking that you’re attending a Malay kenduri or something …. 
This laksa is so famous, that they provide catering services for functions, courses and seminars. And they have even appeared in some royal functions, it seems.
But to find this place might take a few turns. IF you’re not familiar with the roads in Kuala Kangsar, especially. It is located exactly behind of Tsung Wah secondary school on Jalan Dato Sagor. You’ll see a small signboard pointing to a detour into a small lane. And then bear witness to the vehicles parked almost haphazardly, chickens running around, ducks paddling in the murky waters, and the ‘restaurant‘ with an erected canopy against a backdrop of coconut trees.
Clockwise from top left : The brain behind the concept; Pak Ngah immortalized in a photo on the wall, You can also order Ramly burgers if you’re not fond of laksa, The easily-missed signboard indicating the turning, and a still-functioning JUKEBOX?!
The layout of the eatery is simple. You can either sit inside the compound of the house, equipped with ceiling fans, or you can choose to be seated under the white canopy fronting the residence. Either way, you can expect service to be prompt, and customers-turnover to be rapid.
Most people come and take away a few packets of the laksa and choose to eat in the comfort of one’s office or home. Reason being; the place can be a little sweltering hot in the midst of the afternoon.
No menu, obviously. You can opt for laksa, burger, and some other items I could not remember. So we ended up with three bowls of laksa, although initially we pledged to share, after the rather heavy meal at Sudut Nyonya.
The starchy, coarse and white strands of rice noodles, or ‘lai fun’ as we call them in Cantonese. But this one’s different from the laksa we’re used to.
Most importantly, the VERDICT.
Yes, the bowl of laksa at only RM2.20/USD0.70 was real value for money. Though I read from somewhere, they were sold for RM1.20 a bowl or something, not too long ago. You don’t get dainty portions, but instead presented with heaps of rice noodles that is different in texture compared to the smoother ‘lai fun’ used in Assam Laksa. Some may not like the noodles for the taste and coarse texture was indeed something that needs getting used to.
But I was fine with the noodles, and even began to like the raw, natural flavours of the rice noodles. But the broth was something else. First sip; it was salty. Then the tangy nuance kicked in, but still …. the laksa soup was too watery and bland. I was expecting a thicker, fuller broth with chunks of mackerel or whatever fish they decide to put into the soup. But I was wrong, for the fish was very finely ‘blended’, and the lack of prawn paste (‘har kou’) was evident. Although in their defense, there were several containers of the pungent paste on some tables.
What else was there? Half a boiled egg, julienned cucumber, onions, red chillies, and the usual spices and condiments in assam laksa.
Don’t take them lightly though, for Pak Ngah Laksa’s charm transcends generations and borders.
Like what KYT said; the laksa here pales in comparison to Penang’s indomitable Assam Laksa. For me, I still prefer my Nyonya Laksa/Siamese Laksa.
Do share your experience here if you’ve tried Laksa Pak Ngah, and dying to let the other readers know about your thoughts. After all, taste is a very subjective matter.
LAKSA PAK NGAH (HALAL)
Behind of Tsung Wah Secondary School,
Jalan Dato Sagor,
33000 Kuala Kangsar,
Perak, Malaysia.
Telephone : 605-775 7986, or 6012-684 7986.
Business hours : 9am-7pm daily. Closed on Wednesdays.
Here’s a GOOGLE MAP to Laksa Pak Ngah
Directions : As you exit the Kuala Kangsar toll, go towards the direction of Kuala Kangsar town. You will soon come to the traffic lights, after passing under the archway. You should see a Goodyear tyre shop on your immediate LEFT. Turn right and you will see Tsung Wah secondary school. The small lane behind of the school with a Restoran Laksa Pak Ngah is where you wanna go.
## For your information, aside from this location, you can also find mobile versions (small trucks) of the Laksa Pak Ngah in several spots at Kuala Kangsar and even at some night markets in Ipoh. ##
Not very visually pleasing…but the taste must be good aye.
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Malay Style Laksa @ Pak Ngah, Kuala Kangsar…
The famous Malay laksa behind Tsung Wah school in Kuala Kangsar. Been around since 1955, and serving the same old style of Laksa Kari since those days. Provide catering services as well….
Yr desc of the laksa fits most Malay style laksa ..
I nvr liked it, and went it’s laksa, nothing beats our nyonya/siam ones! ;p
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J2Kfm Reply:
June 18th, 2010 at 8:30 am
True also, I rarely go for Malay style of Laksa myself. Curry mee and Malay CKT are different stories altogether.
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Yummooo…. it does look very similar to a Assam Laksa.
By the way, have you tried “Kai Poh” assam laksa in Gunung Rapat? It used to be very famous, and now is taken over by her 2 daughters.
I’ve heard their business is still very good. You might like to check it out if you haven’t already.
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J2Kfm Reply:
June 18th, 2010 at 11:07 am
Eh, Kee Poh Laksa? Yeah …
http://www.j2kfm.com/gunung-rapat-food-ipoh-meet-the-floggers-chapter-3/
Heard that there’s another one selling from a stall somewhere in Gunung Rapat. You know about that?
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I love laksa
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This Pak Ngah is very famous I see.. Judging from the look of it, it seems delicious, I bet his laksa must taste real good.. If I happen to pass by there, I’ll try this out too
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J2Kfm Reply:
June 18th, 2010 at 2:34 pm
Hi wyyv, I wouldn’t really recommend this Laksa personally, but there are countless others who adore the laksa here to bits. So if you’re ever in town, this would probably be a good choice for a light lunch or breakfast.
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This is a very 1st yum yum laksa I had taken.
Kuala Kangsar ppl who worked outside will definately go to eat when they are home.
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J2Kfm Reply:
June 18th, 2010 at 2:22 pm
I should have thought so. Most people I have talked to about food in Kuala Kangsar, no matter they’re Malay, Chinese or Indian, they’ll recommend this laksa behind the Chinese school.
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i like another laksa stall in kuala kangsar, open i think from lunch till 8pm… manned by chinese couple. it is delicious, locals told me laksa pak ngah not as good as it used to be.
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J2Kfm Reply:
June 18th, 2010 at 2:08 pm
Oh ic, thanks Vivien for the heads up. Any idea where this place is?
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Wow, really looks good. My friend once bought for me too, and I think it tasted great. From Kuala Kangsar as well.
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J2Kfm Reply:
June 18th, 2010 at 2:11 pm
If it’s a Malay laksa, then it must be this. There’s a stall by the riverside and another near to Yut Loy in town, if I’m not wrong.
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Linda Reply:
September 8th, 2011 at 10:07 am
another malay laksa which is famous in kuala kangsar :
Laksa Pak Mail : he used to sell this on the bicycle (nowadays, the stall is located at Kg Talang)
Laksa Idris : at the local municipal building near the Sg Perak
I like Assam Laksa as well, but this Kuala Kangsar Laksa is famous with the home made laksa and light soup, which is totally different from the taste of Assam laksa.
Thus, these two laksa cannot be compared apple to apple
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J2Kfm Reply:
September 9th, 2011 at 10:19 am
Correct, I would say they’re of different categories altogether.
Personally, I prefer asam laksa, or better yet, Nyonya laksa.
I still prefer our Chinese style asam laksa, the Malay one lack that “Uump” !!!
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J2Kfm Reply:
June 18th, 2010 at 7:33 pm
Maybe we’ve grown accustomed to the taste of Assam Laksa, that it’s rather strange for one to turn to something as diluted as this version.
But to those who love the Malay laksa, they may not like the pungent, thick and sweetish assam laksa with prawn paste. So it’s like a never ending squabble of sorts.
Just my two cents.
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ooo…the laksa looks good…yummy
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the laksa looks very tempting!!!
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I do come across many friends that like the Malay laksa version…
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Well, for the nostalgia if not the taste, rite?
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J2Kfm Reply:
June 19th, 2010 at 6:03 pm
Yup, though what the others said might be true;
Malay laksa is indeed different from the usual assam laksa.
So to each his own then?
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GarugaXXX Reply:
June 20th, 2010 at 2:21 am
i can see your comments
in many food blogs..
who are you baby..??
a food Food Critic ..??or
just some guy that loves
foods like me..?
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J2Kfm Reply:
June 20th, 2010 at 10:55 am
LOL. First up, Garuga, I am not your ‘baby’.
And I am not a food critic, merely someone who loves his food and wanna share my experiences.
GarugaXXX Reply:
June 21st, 2010 at 12:29 am
when you go to k.kangsar using the old road,there is one laksa stall there..
peoples called that laksa pulas..man..the tastes so divine..
but the service is totally suck..!!
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my mom says its her usual weekend indulgences during her schooldays!
so you know how popular it is in KK.
p.s i spotted one of the trucks in Maybank Ipoh Garden..
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J2Kfm Reply:
June 20th, 2010 at 6:15 pm
Yeah, it’s darn popular. I saw people from all races tucking in that afternoon, under the comfort of the canopy.
If I remember correctly, the truck also plies the Gunung Rapat night market, and another operates near Tasek there.
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u didn’t try the cendol?
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J2Kfm Reply:
June 22nd, 2010 at 8:00 am
Hi MakanMalaya … nope, we asked her for recommendations, and she kept introducing the ABC .. and fruit juices. Aiks.
My fault for not asking about cendol though.
Do they serve the cendol at the main shop also?
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I noticed that you have been to KK a few times but on each occasions you did not mention Choon Kee Restaurant. It is located at the other end of Sudut Nyonya Restaurant. It is well known for its fresh water fish.
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J2Kfm Reply:
June 23rd, 2010 at 6:55 pm
I think I saw this before, but this restaurant is not opened for lunch? Or maybe I missed that.
I am usually in KK for breakfast-lunch only. For work, and never until evening.
But thanks. I can imagine the area famous for freshwater fishes, just like Sauk which I wrote sometime last year.
And Gerik-Lenggong.
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Peter Ng Reply:
June 24th, 2010 at 5:21 pm
The one at the end of the row of shop houses only opened for the night. The one that I meant is the wooden structure beside it. This is the old Choon Kee which used to operate in the old market. It was relocated here when the old market had to make way for a modern market. The chef at the old one is the same as before whereas the chef at the new one are his nephews.
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J2Kfm Reply:
June 24th, 2010 at 8:20 pm
Wooden structure beside the shop? Oh I did not notice about this. But thanks anyway.
Means this Choon Kee is opened for lunch as well?
How can you not like assam laksa. I love Malay laksa, with the hard-boiled egg.
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J2Kfm Reply:
August 21st, 2010 at 6:03 pm
RM : There’s a long long story about this. Maybe I will tell you about this if we ever meet.
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LAKSA PAK NGAH makes special service for Hari Raya……
SPECIAL DELIVERY… Surf to http://[email protected]
t.q.
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[...] Kangsar – Yut Loy Hainanese Food Kuala Kangsar – Sudut Nyonya Restaurant Kuala Kangsar – Laksa Pak Ngah (NEW!!) – The famous Malay Laksa with mobile vans [...]
I’m married to a man from this town.
I’ve eaten laksas/laksae/laksam from almost every state(even Sarawak), and I love them all.
But I somehow do not like Kuala Kangsar’s laksa. The only laksa ever that I do not like at all no matter from which stall.
About the noodles.
They are not made with rice flour, but wheat flour. Which explains the funny texture.
It is truly an acquired taste, and I have no idea when will I acquire a taste for it.
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J2Kfm Reply:
December 9th, 2010 at 10:12 am
Oh, not rice flour … you sure?
Yes, the noodles tend to have a very different taste and texture, almost like too rough to be polished.
But then again, for me, the noodles were okay, just that the soup was not.
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Linda Reply:
September 8th, 2011 at 10:09 am
it is a rice flour…
That’s why they called it Laksa Tepung Beras
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Daunhijau Reply:
July 1st, 2012 at 11:16 am
Totally agree the soup was not good I don’t like it. It is not the best.
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Anonymous Reply:
March 5th, 2014 at 11:20 am
I am very 100% sure it’s made with wheat flour.
It’s called laksa gandum.
I did a post on it, and here you can see the packaging of the laksa itself.
http://wendyinkk.blogspot.com/2013/08/laksa-kuala-kangsar-perak-mff-9.html
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WendyinKK Reply:
March 5th, 2014 at 11:21 am
sorry it’s me in that anon comment
must try LAKSA PULAS PAKYA at changkat jering…every saturday everning behind MURTABAK MAIDIN….very delicious…they called LAKSA PULAS OR LAKSA TEPUNG GANDUM…
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Mari cuba laksa saya pula. Saya memang berasal dari Kg. Kati Kangsar,Perak dan sekarang menetap di Bandar Task Puteri, Rawang Selangor. Saya berniaga pasar malam / pasar tani menjual laksa K.Kangsar/ Mee Rebus & Mee Kari. Kalau ingin mencuba masakan saya datanglah di tempat-tempat seperti berikut:-
Isnin 5 petang – 10.00 malam Pasar Tani Bandar Tasik Puteri Rawang
Selasa ” ” Tmn. Bersatu, Bt.17, Rawang
Rabu ” Pasar malam Bandar Tasik Puteri,Rawang
Khamis ” Pasar Tani Bandar Country Homes, Rawang
Jumaat ” ” Bukit Sentosa, Hulu Selangor.er
Berkunjunglah ke gerai kanopi saya yang yang tertulis PAK YOP ” CITARASA UTARA”
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Di Kuala kangsar juga boleh mendapatkan perkhidmatan Inap Desa(Homestay)terletak lebih kurang 1km dari Bandar Kuala Kangsar , menawarkan pakej kumpulan atau kelurga(muslim) dengan harga MYR150/Hari .
*MUSLIM SAHAJA
Lebih lanjut lawati : http://jushafikhomestay.blogspot.com/
No : 012-5496200 . En Shafik
017-5186838 . Pn Azizah
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[…] for a noteworthy laksa in Ipoh. To no avail. And I do concur to some degree; for even the renowned Laksa Pak Ngah of Kuala Kangsar was barely satisfactory; and they even had mini trucks running around the state serving the […]