Ipoh’s Old Town – Chang’s Hakka Mee & Beef Soup
March 6, 2010 | 10,889 views# Updated 31st Mat 2010 – This lovely Hakka Mee stall is moving to the shop next to All Inn Cafe, opposite of Kong Heng Coffee Shop. The premise was previously occupied by Dai San Yean Gopeng Mee (I remember I blogged about it sometime ago … or did I?) Opening soon on 3rd June 2010 #
Ipoh’s old town is hands down, one of the most famous place for food in all of Ipoh, or in Malaysia for that matter. I’m not kidding you. Come public holidays or the weekends, you’ll see hordes of hungry souls swarming the area for breakfast-brunch. And yeah, not to mention the tea breaks after lunch, and some outlets even catering to the evening diners.
Mr Chang in his element, preserving his dad’s heritage of Hakka noodles with minced pork, served with tender slices of beef in a most hearty broth
Given the rather strategic location of my office, right smack in the midst of old town itself (and no, I am not telling where … I don’t wanna be stalked on a daily basis. Hehehe … AS IF lah …), we have our breakfast every single working day in one of the many exceptional choices here.
On one side of Jalan Bandar Timah (or Leech Street, as the road was known as such back in those days) is my personal favourite coffee shop serving delicious dry curry noodles, egg toast and white coffee – Nam Chau. Further down the road you have the classic Kong Heng which still serves the BEST popiah in town (yes, bar none … not even the mobile stalls at a backlane of Canning Garden nor the one previously at the field in Canning Garden which was shrouded in a most infamous ghost story-mystery). Adjacent to Kong Heng you’ll find Thean Chun, where you must try the Ipoh famous Kai See Hor Fun (Smooth flat rice noodles/koay teow in soup, with shredded chicken meat), caramel egg custard, and the herbal tea with egg.
Don’t scoop up those minced garlic and munch …. or you’ll never make it to the audition of Twilight 3. Oh and if you’re not fond of beef (or you just can’t eat them) don’t worry. He serves separate soup (pork-based) for the stuffed fish paste/Yong Tau Foo
But of course, the hunt does not end there. Maybe I’ll write a post on ALL THE FOOD YOU CAN FIND IN IPOH’S OLD TOWN someday down the line. So you know where to seek for good grubs and not resort to the same old, same old white coffee fix from Nam Heong/Sin Yoon Loong on the other side of Jalan Bandar Timah.
Springy egg noodles aka Hakka Mee, topped with some minced pork
For now, I’ll write about this rather famous amongst the Ipohans, yet almost unheard of Hakka Noodles served with Beef Soup in old town, also located on the same street, before you reach the tall Maybank building on your right. The two lots have NO signboard, so you will easily miss this if you’re not careful. This restaurant (the name’s SUN YIK, but you can’t find the name printed anywhere else other than on the company registration certificate on the wall) is situated directly opposite of Yew Ming which serves traditional Teochew porridge (read about my review HERE)
Having an imaginary heart attack, yet? Don’t be. There was barely any fats in the slices of beef, yet they were tender enough to require almost no chewing.
Chang took over the business from his father, a legacy that dates back to the 60’s. Previously operating from a corner coffee shop directly opposite of Kong Heng (now the shop has become All Inn Cafe, which serves Tong Sui aka Sweet Soup Desserts), Chang’s Hakka Noodles has moved to this current location for about 30 years or so now. (Correct me if I’m wrong).
The signature item everyone’s having? The Hakka Noodles served dry, topped with some savoury minced pork. But the real STAR of the meal? The side serving of tender, almost melt-in-mouth slices of beef cooked in a hearty, beefy broth, garnished generously with chopped coriander, a compulsory addition to beef soups. The soup tasted sweet, but not from the addition of MSG. You’ll find yourself scooping spoonfuls of the broth onto your plate of bouncy, QQ Hakka noodles and the rest sipped/drunk at the end of your meal.
You can order by referring to the menu on the wall, but all written in Chinese
The slices of beef are meant to be dipped into your own concocted garlic chili sauce (okay, not exactly homemade, but you mix the chili sauce and fresh, minced garlic according to your preference), to enhance the overall experience, so to speak. The minced pork toppings was packed with flavours as well, if not a little too salty for my liking.
The Hakka noodles was not one of the best I’ve tasted though. A colleague even mentioned that Hugh Low Street’s Yin Yau Kui‘s (now moved to the opposite side of the road, in a corner coffee shop named Restoran Paris) fares much better. But personally, though I like Yin Yau Kui’s Hakka mee, I hated their fishballs, and the other Yeong Liew (remember what Liew is?), for I found them tasting rather artificial.
But still, for a wholesome breakfast or dinner, as Chang opens for dinner on several days a week, away from the maddening breakfast crowd over at those significantly more famous-with-tourists outlets (you know which ones …. don’t you?), try Chang Hakka Noodles with Beef Soup at Restoran Sun Yik instead. And yeah, they do serve white coffee (WHICH coffee shop in old town doesn’t?!), on top of the usual ‘leung sui’ (herbal tea) and such.
Chang’s Hakka Noodles with Beef Soup (NEW ADDRESS)
Restoran Sun Yik
No 4, Jalan Panglima,
30000 Ipoh,
Perak, Malaysia.
Opens daily for breakfast (7am-1.30pm) and dinner (Tues-Sat only, from 7pm-9.30pm)
Here’s the GOOGLE MAP to Chang’s Hakka Noodles & Beef Soup in Ipoh’s Old Town.
The shop is at the same row as Li Heng Fatt Hor Hee, and next to All Inn Cafe (a shop that sells tong sui from morning until evening)
so so much things i havent try at ipoh
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Mmm.. more and more favourites surfacing. There is one very good pork plus innards (like kidneys) noodles in Old Town that I went to. Care to post?
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J2Kfm Reply:
March 6th, 2010 at 9:17 pm
Is it Zun Seng Fatt, a few doors away from Kong Heng? That’s one of my favourite place for pork noodles as well.
http://www.j2kfm.com/pork-noodles-zun-seng-fatt-old-town-ipoh/
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I think the name of the shop is Yik Sun. It used to be where my father did his apprenticeship in being a registered dentist more than 60 years ago.
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J2Kfm Reply:
March 6th, 2010 at 9:16 pm
Yup, it’s Yik Sun in Chinese, but in their business registration it’s really written as Restoran Sun Yik, on Leech Street. Hmm … figures. Though I doubt many recognize the shop by its name. 🙂
Thanks Tham, for pointing this out.
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lolz, it’s my surname!!!
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Beef! In ipoh its not that common no?
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J2Kfm Reply:
March 6th, 2010 at 9:36 pm
Erm not really. There’s the famous Buntong beef noodles, another one at Nam Fatt on Jalan Kampar, and there’s even one not-so-nice one in Kong Heng itself.
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Vy long time ago their stall was opposite kwong hing..like the hakka mee!
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J2Kfm Reply:
March 6th, 2010 at 9:39 pm
Yeah, but I’ve no idea how the older outlet looked like back then. 🙂
Not one who remembers the smaller details.
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TallGal Reply:
March 7th, 2010 at 12:40 pm
jz like an old style kopitiam wf 1 stall of hakka mee.Always been there when i was Young..haha!
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J2Kfm Reply:
March 7th, 2010 at 6:44 pm
So you’re officially OLD? 🙂
this is definitely my favourite beef stall also!!!
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Sorry..I was there 2day. I dont really fancy theirs..so-so only. Its my 3rd after 5 years ago.
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Long time i didnt eat at that stall..nowadays less crowd compared to his father’s time…
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J2Kfm Reply:
March 8th, 2010 at 8:01 am
Not really, you can see the breakfast crowd on most days, though finding an empty table shouldn’t require you to perform another ‘Foh San-Persistent Stares’ ….
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I always thought Hakka noddles only serves with Yong Tau Foo. 😛
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alamak, where ah?? this place doesn’t sound familiar to me… 🙁
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J2Kfm Reply:
March 8th, 2010 at 8:07 pm
Old town … within spitting distance from Kong Heng, and very near to the Maybank building there.
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oh, another gr8 one to try. i hope the nxt time im in ipoh you are around.. or at least, get my DMs haha
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J2Kfm Reply:
March 8th, 2010 at 8:15 pm
Sorry sorry sorry. >_< I felt apologetic, really. Missing out on DM's and such. I don't log into Twitter as often now though.
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I agree with you, Kong Heng serves the BEST popiah!!! No fight!
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J2Kfm Reply:
March 8th, 2010 at 8:11 pm
Hehehe, no fight huh? Hey, heard that the FMK Ais Kacang shop sells good popiah also, or is it?
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very generous portion of beef given!!!
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-_- … how come i don’t remember this place one…
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J2Kfm Reply:
March 8th, 2010 at 8:10 pm
Look at the exterior of the shop. Will you even step in, if you’re not aware of what they’re selling?
You’d rather go to the stretch of white coffee outlets, or curry mee, or even Kong Heng/Thean Chun., right?
ESPECIALLY when finding a vacant parking space is almost like needle-in-haystack metaphor.
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oo… we did not try this during our visit ;P
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I feel so ashamed! Why? because I have never been to any of the restaurant at iPoh. :p
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there is this hakka beef noodle shop behind yin woh tong that you should try..
their fishball is amazing..
the wait is killing though..
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He’s moving to a shoplot just two blocks away. Next to All Inn Cafe, opposite Kong Heng somewhere around there. So no Hakka Mee until 3rd June.
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J2Kfm Reply:
May 31st, 2010 at 7:47 pm
Hi Stanley, you’re fast! Did you happen to pass by today?
I did, and I was initially surprised at all the moving stalls and shops in old town lately. The Gopeng Mee moving to the opposite lot previously housing Heng Fong Restaurant, and now Hakka mee moving there.
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My favourite place to have beef, which is very tender!
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J2Kfm Reply:
June 12th, 2010 at 10:47 am
Hi See Teck,
I just went again to this hakka mee stall the other day, at the NEW location beside All Inn Cafe.
The slices of beef were still good, but the noodles was not.
Too heavy on the lye water, the noodles tasted too ‘alkaline’ …. I could not finish my portion.
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[…] Chang’s Hakka Mee & Beef Soup @ Old Town (NEW!!) – Relocated […]
RESTAURANT HAKKA along the row with Mun Chung Restaurant is still the best. I have eaten the hakka noodles there since I was 6 and I’m still loving it to bits.
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Yeong Reply:
November 14th, 2010 at 11:43 pm
Totally agree. But i think it become less tasty if compared to the hakka mee few years ago.
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My favourite is the the Hakka Mee store located behind the Chinese Methodist Church of Jalan Yang Kalsom.
(Tham’s Brother)
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Foo Reply:
August 29th, 2011 at 1:04 pm
Hi j2kfm!
wrt to Tham Also:
I remember back in the eighties when i was a teenager the Hakka mee behind Methodist Church (Jalan Yang Kalsom) used to be situated on the main road itself (same row with Bata shoe shop) and the person who runs it was known as Kow Low (tall guy)? My memory not that clear so i could be mistaken.
My late dad and grandpa used to frequent this Hakka mee. I really missed this as i working overseas now more than a decade and only come back once every 1-1/2 years to 2 years. I usually stay at my uncle’s/grandma’s house near Jalan Chung Ah Ming (intersection of Jalan Pasir Puteh / Jalan President Kennedy) so Pasir Pinji is nearby.
When I used to work in KL back in the nineties i try come back a few days b4 CNY to hantam the famous Chee Cheong Fun at Pasir Pinji (long wait) and take the Curry Mee at Pasir Puteh (Chuen Fatt) and Hugh Low Street (Chuen Fong). Of course will not miss the Old Town white coffee, chicken hor fun and the tauge chicken, too.
Too bad where i am now don’t have such things so i sometimes really have a bad case of craving for these childhood comfort food. I alternate coming back to Malaysia and visiting my immediate family in Australia so i only got chance to eat Ipoh hawker food once every 2 yrs or so. Sometimes the shop(s) also not open when i come back for short trip esp. during festive period.
Btw…of topic. Anyone knows if the KL “Tengkat Tong Shin” corner stall fried kuey teow run by an elderly couple (white haired guy and also their son is fat fat one) still exist, closed up or moved somewhere? I manage to stay in KL for 1 day shopping at Low Yat/Sg Wang and pass by there (2 years ago) but no more there liao (it is at T-junction of Tong Shin and Ceylon Hill road). I never visit there since 2005 so the landscape near Bkt Bintang also many changes already.
Thanks for your blog…..it really gives me nostalgia for Ipoh style and Malaysian food.
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J2Kfm Reply:
August 29th, 2011 at 6:07 pm
Hi Foo. Very nice comments, and thanks for sharing this.
Not sure if it’s one of the same, but next to the same church on Jalan Yang Kalsom is this Wok With Kim Yee Tan Kow shop with various yong tau foo and noodles. Maybe it’s related?
I can understand your cravings. I was away in KL working, and the occasional trips back to Ipoh were packed with FOOD round the clock! There’s just now comparing the quality of hawker fares here and the ones elsewhere. Bias? Maybe. But being born bred raised studies and worked here, my tastebud was developed to a distinct advantage, mostly influenced by the taste of Ipoh food.
Sorry no idea about the Tengkat Tong Shin CKT though.
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Foo Reply:
August 30th, 2011 at 4:23 am
Hi J2Kfm,
Thanxs. No problem.
While i do enjoy Ipoh style food i also came to appreciate Penang and KL variety as well (exposure due to spending my school holidays with relatives over there). The food in KL is certainly different enough from Ipoh although sometimes a few stalls comes close but yet you know is not the genuine taste one. I do like the Penang CKT a lot and try not to miss it when i visit there.
During my previous job in KL (last century) we used to drive along the West Coast N-S highway doing tech support from northern states Penang all the way down to Johore. While i roughly knew where to eat in Penang i had not much info regarding good makan places in Malacca or Johore (no internet exist dat time). So mostly we go wherever is convenient or go straight to the popular Herbal Wrapped Chicken or the many curry flavored steam boat stalls while in Malacca. Sometimes the colleague follow us is Muslim so can’t eat whatever we liked.
I used to be nuts about Hi-Fi and vinyl LP back then and i venture out to some places in Klang Valley browsing at these shops, many of them situated in PJ area but food for me is secondary when your mind is filled with OTHER things. Oh well.
Cheers.
J2Kfm Reply:
August 30th, 2011 at 9:05 pm
True, well said Foo. I absolutely fell for Penang’ s hawker fares, and if you read the posts on Penang food, you’d be able to know why.
Oh in Malacca? I know quite a few good places, some popular with tourists and some only good with the locals.
Food in KL? So far …. chili pan mee. Most definitely. And fish head noodles, wantan mee with SUCCULENT char siew. Noticed I left the restaurants from this list?
Because nothing beats street food. Seriously.
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[…] *Other famous Hakka mee in Ipoh:Hugh Low Street Hakka MeeOsborne Street Hakka Mee @ MXWok With Kim Yee Tan Kow @ Yang Kalsom RoadHong Hin Hakka Noodles @ Old TownYik Sang Hakka Mee with Beef Soup @ Old Town […]
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Delicious relaxed meal first thing in the morning
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