Motormouth From Ipoh – Malaysian Food & Travel

Here’s a breather. In case you felt like as though you’re suffocating from the onslaught of Bangkok posts.

Back in 2009, we stopped by this comparatively spacious ‘shack’ on Old Klang Road; right beside the overhead NPE due to the extremely (no kidding) admirable turnout of a dinner crowd. I daresay; hundreds of them and more standing around waiting like vultures for an empty table. This place is named Ah Wang Bak Kut Teh; but albeit the immense popularity, their signature dish is actually the steamed fish head in three options of sauces. The experience was good, and we returned for another visit two days apart.

And then, I completely dropped the urge to write about it. Complacent, or maybe procrastination. And the fact that they’re already swarmed/overwhelmed by the ridiculous number of hungry patrons, it’s not even funny.

Notice the plump guy in white T-shirt seated and calmly orchestrating the whole ordeal? He’s the BOSS. Presumably, since he’s the one barking orders and coordinating everything from the comfort of his seat. Fatty Bak Kut Teh. Hmm, I see some relevance.

Pardon me as I’m in a rather perplexed state  now. Losing one’s voice isn’t something to be proud of, yet I can’t help but felt the guilt creeping in without going scavenging for food and bringing the already cob-webbed gear (my D7000) along. Here’s a brief piece on Fatty Bak Kut Teh on Old Klang Road …..

And so, instead of going back to Ah Wang (which was predictably packed this evening), we ventured over to Fatty Bak Kut Teh & Fish Head further up Old Klang Road; passing Scott’s Garden and towards Midvalley’s direction. About 200 metres apart, and you can see the crowd spilling over to the streets happily lapping up their servings of claypot bak kut teh and steaming hot fish heads steamed in a variety of manners.

Given the current debilitated state, I chose the plain, steamed version with lots of chopped ginger, though spiked with the fiery bits of cili padi here and there. The routine addition of chopped scallions completed the garnishing, atop one humongous fish head steamed to a tender finish. (RM32/USD11)

Yet, the flesh reeked of a mild ‘muddy/earthy’ taste (an attribute of some freshwater fishes), and this took a few points off the record book. The sauce can be a tad salty if sipped like it is, so it’s best to complement the fish with, or poured atop your rice instead of scooping spoonfuls of the soy sauce-based broth.

Given the redundant publicity of a restaurant name, we KNEW we had to give their bak kut teh a try. Disappointingly, just like Ah Wang’s down the road, the BKT here faltered to impress in whichever manner imaginable. Lacking of body, aroma or even flavour, the cuts of pork and innards were not saved by the herbal soup nor the fact that they loaded the pot with pig’s tails and small intestines even. (RM20/USD7 – portion for two pax)

The portion can be daunting; the fish head arriving in a serving enough to be shared by at least 4 pax. And we specifically requested for the SMALLEST possible. Since there were only 3 of us, and we wanted to try their other dishes. So, be warned.

They open from 6pm until 5am. Yes, the twilight hours! A good place to sober up after the mindless binge-drinking over at Scott’s Garden? Fair enough.

For me, Bak Kut Teh from Klang‘s still the best, with good options in PJ including Ah Sang in Sungei Way, and Puchong’s Yap Chuan (for the dry BKT). Jalan Ipoh’s got a lot of options too, yet the one beside Dynasty Hotel left a terrible impression on my mind.

FATTY BAK KUT TEH & FISH HEAD
No A-5. Batu 4 1/2, Jalan Kelang Lama,
58000 Kuala Lumpur.
Tel No : +6012-366 0035, +6012-289 2322
Business Hours  :6pm – 5am
Find the MAP from their website HERE
Directions : Coming from NPE/Puchong’s direction towards KL city or Midvalley, you will pass by the turning to Jalan Kuchai Lama on your RIGHT. Then as you go under the NPE overhead pass, you will see Scott’s Garden (TESCO) on your LEFT. Fatty Gan is almost immediately after Scott’s Garden on the LEFT. Same row as AmBank on Old Klang Road.