Motormouth From Ipoh – Malaysian Food & Travel

It was Auntie Yoong (the lady who helped us a lot throughout our stay in Betong) and her husband who recommended this place, and took the trouble to draw me a mini map + directions, as “Gettin-Lost-Easy” was probably scripted on my face.

You can choose to dine al fresco, but we did not. This IS Thailand after all, weather’s hot and mosquitoes are on rampage …

Situated a short distance from town centre (the Clock Tower roundabout being the referral point here), go north along Sukkayang Road, passing by rows of shops on both sides, until you reach a rather large petrol station on your left. The restaurant is situated on your right, but not by roadside, so do not speed.

Thai coconut juice (20 Baht = RM2)

Of course, do not expect air-conditioned restaurant with impeccable service, and top notch chef. No sirree, this restaurant is not pretentious, serving homestyle Thai fare, with a menu in Thai and Mandarin language only. Me=The Banana was having trouble ordering, but luckily Auntie Yoong wrote me some famous dishes (in Thai, no less) on a piece of paper. Muahaha ….

Clockwise from top left: Kerabu Chicken Feet (80 Baht), Stir-fried Kailan with Salted fish (80 baht), Fried Chicken (100 Baht) and Salted Egg Squids (80 Baht)

The kerabu chicken feet salad was a tangy, piquant, and appetizing mix of deboned chicken feet, tossed with lots of vege, and of course, bird’s eye chilli. Perfect appetizer. The squids were surprisingly NOT batter-fried variety, but instead cooked in salted egg gravy. The squids were fresh, resulting in QQ texture, and less fishy taste. The fried chicken on the other hand, was so-so only. Serving’s rather small, and I could not sample as much as I’d hoped to.

Black Pepper Pig’s Intestines (80 baht)

I’m not really a fan of innards, so were the others. But Auntie Yoong and hubby was insisting that we should try the Black Pepper Pig’s Intestines, and we believed them. Glad to say, our faith was properly placed. Small cuts of the innards, quite alike macaroni, and cleaned thoroughly, thus no nauseating taste commonly associated with un-clean intestines. And the black pepper covered any unpleasant flavour the intestines might have. Brilliant. Even those who stay away from innards agreed that this dish was very well cooked.

Special Sang Yue (Ikan Haruan) (300 Baht)

One of the must-try here is the Sang Yue (ikan haruan), not sure what it’s called in English. The fish was deep-fried, then steamed in a metal plate resembling the shape of a fish. Some gravy was poured over, and then an extra bowl of the gravy was placed aside. We were told to periodically ‘top-up’ the sauce, to prevent the fish from ‘drying’. Take note that the plate is continuously warmed with a small flame underneath. Our verdict? Nothing special. But at least the fish was not too fishy, and rather fresh. Sorry, it’s been so long, I forgot what goes into the gravy. =P

The usual order – Tom Yum Soup (150 Baht)

And last but not least, what’s a Thai meal without Tom Yum? If a Thai restaurant can’t cook their Tom Yum well, they do NOT deserve any accolades, or recognition. Glad to say, Krua Samui’s Tom Yum was very good. Spicy, sour and delightful concoction of seafood ingredients such as squids and prawns, thrown in with various vegetables and mushrooms, then boiled until the right temperature. Not overly spicy, but just right for our palates. Thumbs up!

Total damage : 1310 Baht/ RM131 for a meal for 12. A tough act to follow in Malaysia?

Glorified, towering baskets of gluttony ….

What better way to start the day than by completely overshadowing our previous day’s ultra-cheap dimsum breakfast, by ordering like madmen, oblivious to stares and grunts. Of course, there were more of us on the second day, therefore a bit of gluttony is permissible. Other than 34 (!!) baskets of steamed dimsum, we ordered chee cheong fun (which was tasteless, and coarse, unlike Ipoh’s better ones, RM1) and fish maw (a Betong specialty, cooked in thick gravy ala Lum Mee, with coagulated pork’s blood and coriander, RM7).

This outlet’s situated on a road branching east from clock tower, coming from Mongkollit tunnel’s direction. Once again, click HERE for the map. The meal costed us RM48. Including chinese tea for 12.

Bird’s eye view of the shrine …

A short distance away from the GIANT mailbox on Sukkayang road, is a small temple by the road. Which meant, it’s time to click away!!!

No idea what they’re praying to here

Then we moved on to Wat Phuttathiwat (try repeating that in sequence, and you’ll have yourself a potential tongue-twister of a title), which I’ve no recollection of the location. Yup, completely blank. Typical of my flawed memories. Won’t somebody pass me some ginkgo? =P

Writing’s too small to comprehend … but basically some yada on the history of the temple

Stairway to heaven !!!

The highest shrine/point of the temple, after much panting, and climbing …

The weather was cloudy on that afternoon. A blessing in disguise, as the inner wax-beings in us can’t possibly stand the heat from all the climbing and photo-taking. However, it was drizzling slightly, and we had to take off our shoes before stepping onto the highest platform. Shucks … should’ve worn my slippers instead.

No, not a Malay musical instrument, but you can beat on the gong-like apparatus for fun

A somewhat disturbing resemblance to a final resting place ??

Church-like motives on the windows?

The highest point of the temple, overlooking the whole area, and Betong town

Intricate details of the shrines …

Giant Buddha statue

~~ LUNCH @ Curry House beside Blue Mosque ~~

Point away at your desires …. no, not the girls, you pervert !!

Next to the only mosque in town (Masjid Jamek), a baby blue one at that, is this curry shop at the corner of a row of shoplots. Parking’s a breeze though we went 2 rounds searching for a closer lot (lazybums DON’T walk, remember? =P).

WOW. How else to describe the humongous trotter?

Array of authentic, home-style Thai dishes (photo thanks to YK)

Crispy fried chicken with special chilli sauce

Ordered by Giant Boy (who has Betong blood in his body), the dishes were more than enough for the 12 of us. Noteworthy dishes include fried egg omelette, fried chicken, dry curry pork, deep-fried pork’s lard, and green curry chicken. Total damage? RM59 only. Fiery guts were doused with their local drinking water, Singha (yup, the beer brand).

Next Post : Krua Samui Thai Restaurant @ Betong

The convoy to our destination

Finally … after a good ~20 minutes drive from town

Driving up north from the clock tower in Betong town, using Sukkayang road, we soon reached the outskirts of town. Our mind wandered whether we were on the right track, as there was no signboards in sight, and the endless forests somehow reminded us of the grim events surrounding Yala province. Fortunately, we pressed on and caught view of road signs indicating we’re well on our way to our destination. Phew ….

Entourage of Beetles provided a myriad of colours to the war-torn site

The relieving sight, sound and smell of the crowd …

Some strange fruits (?)/ vege (?) resembling yams being sold at the entrance

The bridge with replicas of the 12 zodiac animals, according to Chinese belief

The entrance to the tunnel (RM5 per pax)

A brief history of the tunnel

Yup,the tunnel was used as a base for the communists way back in 1977. Somehow, the camarederie offset the grievances, despair, and bleak history of the place. Or, could we be in for a surprise?

The eternal climb to heaven … NOT!

Bearing in mind the entrance to the tunnel is very near to the ticketing counter, we realised we were wrong, and we still had to climb a distance to the tunnel itself. Huh?! The weather was horrendously hot that particular day, we were sweating buckets, and yet had to jungle-trek?!! Oh well ….

Helpful guy (supposedly ex-communist himself) explaining the history, and architectural features of the place … in Mandarin. Shucks …

After a short (ahem, I beg to differ, it was LONG enough to sap 3/4 of my energy) climb, we reached a platform where a very friendly uncle told some grandfather’s story, which was interesting, covering the history of the tunnel, and the utilities for war/cooking/storage. However, my command of Mandarin is akin to an Indian speaking French (=P), therefore my mind wandered … “Hmm, wonder will we bump into any ghosts around this area?” … “Hey, wouldn’t it be fun if he demonstrated how they cooked and what they ate back then?” …

Trust me, you would NOT want to step into this small cavern …. (hint : look at the ceiling above !!! Yikes!!!)

Those suffering from claustrophobia should be warned

The eerie tunnel measured around 1km, with various exits

The whole tunnel was a maze, with nooks and crannies we did not explore fully. Trust me, walking around while hunching over (the ceiling’s pretty low in some areas) somehow takes your breath away, if the view hasn’t. And climbing short and high steps continuously reminded me of my breathless/asthmatic experience at the Great Wall of China. Huffing and puffing away, we miraculously survived the ordeal. (Yippee!)

Bye guys! Salutation for being able to survive in such cramped condition!!

Betong’s very own Statue of Liberty?!! =P

After exiting the tunnel, we were led to an exhibition room, with another round of explanation by a lady, also formerly an ex-activist herself. However, no snapping of photos is allowed. Which I humbly abided to, of course.

Aaah … cold and soothing on a scorching afternoon!!!

Soon, it was time to leave. But it was still early to retire back to our room for a rest. Therefore, we aimed for the next destination, which is very near to the tunnel; Betong Hot Spring.

Doesn’t this remind you of California? Palm trees and all?

The Betong Hot Spring

No entrance fees required. The Betong Hot Spring is a natural lake situated somewhere near the tunnel. You’ll pass by this area on your way back to town. However, soaking our feets in the boiling hot water on a steaming hot day somehow sounded ridiculous.

Boil your eggs here. Or your clams (as proven possible by a mother and child combination)

After walking around aimlessly, trying to find a shed (yup, probably most of us were waxed princes/princesses in our previous lives), we decided to scram, and the thought of standing under a cold shower, and then relaxing on our fluffy beds in a fully air-conditioned room was never too appealing.

The Wai Sek Kai (Food Street) of Betong, a few roads away from Central Market

The tong sui (Sweet soup) auntie is operating on this street itself. (Refer old post for reference). To appease the hunger pangs, we went for a stroll around town. Of course, food’s never too far when the Motormouth’s tagging along. =P

Bearded Uncle : Show me the MONAY!!!!

Everyone went for another round of tong sui, then we came to this stall selling fried porky goodness.

Deep fried lean pork meat with sesame

Random fish roe, deep-fried to perfection

The pork strips were rather tough, but being lean meat, that’s understandable. He sells half lean-half fatty cuts as well, deep fried til golden brown. He broke a piece of the fish roe for us to try, and the taste is somewhat an acquired one. Salty, and briny, I found them savoury, perfect as complements to a cold jug of beer.

Til the next instalment …. (FCOE, this is gonna conclude soon, no worries … =P)

Next Post : Part 5 – The Temple & The Curry Meal in Betong

Continuation from Part 2 – The Dim Sum Affair in Betong ….

Central Market – A place for fresh supplies, and whatnots ….

In the mood for some superstar’s treatment? =)

The eight members from the GGG (Great Gerik Gang) joined us on the next day, right after our cheap-as-dirt dimsum meal (erm, wrong metaphor?). Of course, some being foodies themselves, they arrived on empty stomachs. Departing to our next destination with hungry lions aboard sounded ridiculous. So, off we went for brunch, though the pau and the siew mai were still happily residing in our guts.

Directly opposite the Central Market in town, are 2 shops side by side, selling Bak Kut Teh (those who think of Bak Kut Teh as a person’s name, seriously consider clicking HERE). Following advice from GiantBoy (who’s only 16 btw, and taller than some lamp posts), whose aunt is residing in Betong, we chose the one nearer to the traffic lights.

Familiar array of Chinese dishes … typical of Bak Kut Teh meal in Malaysia

Spicy minced pork – sadly, no one ordered these though I was advocating for it helplessly …

The main characters with sides of Yew Char Kueh/Youtiao (click HERE to prevent misunderstanding yet again !!!)

A portion for 5 pax served 7 of them, (another joined us for noodles) costing roughly RM7-8 per pax. Reasonable, though I forgot to get their feedback on the taste. Understandably, paled in comparison to Klang’s version, I presumed. How about the other 5 of us? We had …..

Noodles in Bak Kut Teh soup (RM3)

No intention to burst our bloated stomachs, the 4 of us (me, KYT, TallGal and LaughingGal) with Mr.Lenggong opted for the noodles instead. The lady owner serves wantan noodles, but we were craving for a taste of their herbal concoction, therefore the hybrid of wantan mee-bak kut teh was born. =P

Although it did not create much of an impact, we were still satisfied, as for RM3/bowl, the serving’s pretty generous, with char siew (BBQ pork), siew yoke (roast pork) and choy sum (green mustard) thrown in for good measure.

If you’re ever in shopaholic mode, spend away … no designer goods though.

On that same street with Central Market, are a few shops selling tidbits, snacks, and popular buys for tourist. Do scout a few shops as the prices may vary, and the choices as well. Wanna know what tourists from Malaysia normally buy? (We know, as our job’s at the custom dept in Pengkalan Hulu, checking car boots and passengers’ baggages) Here’s a rundown :

• Instant noodles (Mama brand, tomyam and duck flavours) – Buy in bulk of 30 packets/box, at RM16 each.
• Snacks such as Koh Kae peanuts (various flavours eg. BBQ, coffee, wasabi etc) at RM10 for three containers. A steal, as in Malaysia, these retail for RM5-6 each.
• Black glutinous rice at RM4/kg. Cheap, but carrying any rice products across the border is unwise, as you’ll be heavily taxed.
• Clothes, accessories, fashionable items are lacking in Betong town. Seldom see people buying these and transporting them over the border.

• And last but not least, THESE (refer pic above). Some vehicles were stuffed full to the brim, boots, passenger seats and all, transferring what possibly could be the epitome of summer, when fruiting season is abound. We, however has had enough of them in Gerik the previous days (more on that later), feasting on heaps and tonnes (OK, I’m exaggerating, but the numbers are definitely not scarce) of them.

The largest mailbox in the world

One of the must-see in everyone’s itinerary is this largest mailbox in Thailand, situated at the City Convention Hall, on Sukkayang Road. The original largest mailbox is another one facing the Betong clock tower in the centre of town. But this one absolutely outdid the previous champ, measuring an astounding NINE metres, and a great spot for camwhores.

Just look at the size of this menacing red tower …

A shot of Sukkayang road … on the way to the outskirts of town

We embarked to the next destinations, situated far from town, heading north towards Yala province. But more on that in the next post. I’m just in such dire need of rest.

Happy weekend, fellow bloggers and readers !!!

Next Post : Part 4 – Piyamit Tunnel & Hot Spring, Betong

Continuation from Part 1 …

Picturesque view from our room’s window

Waking up the next morning, from our window, we observe the mist enveloping the mountains, a picture of serenity with swifts flying over the skyline (though not captured on photo). Betong’s timezone is an hour earlier than Malaysia’s, the same with Bangkok’s.

How helpful …

Funnily enough, the tourist information centre is closed since the day before. Any plans to grab some maps, guides, or a word or two of advice was dashed. Guess outsiders would have to come fully prepare, maps and all, OR risk scurrying around like headless mice (haha, sounds morbid?) But really, the town’s not THAT big …

Mr. Policeman casting a shadow on a fine morning …

Traffic’s on the lighter side, especially at night when we unleashed the camwhores in us, right in the middle of road, in front of the clock tower. (=P) But if you’re driving in this town, do be cautious, as the traffic lights system is somewhat different (or the people there couldn’t care less about the laws), with vehicles zooming in from every direction although the green light’s on your side.

Most restaurants in Betong do not display the English spelling, so remember the shop either by location, or the shape/colour of the building

Situated at the corner of Chayachawalit Road, a short walk from our hotel, Betong Merlin, is this supposedly popular dimsum joint, serving Chinese style breakfast. For detailed map of Betong, please refer to Travelfish’s useful map HERE.

He’s probably thinking, who’s this nosy fella?

The owner’s a local Chinese, speaking fluent Mandarin. Therefore communicating my orders was an easy task, given my limited vocabulary of the language.

A variety of dimsum on metal plates, before steamed and poured over some sauce

Unlike Malaysian style of serving dimsum, it’s self-service when it comes to ordering, whereby you’ll have to walk over to the counter, and pick your favourite pieces. Then he’ll steam the dimsum freshly for you, (which may take a good 10-15 minutes) and serve them at your table. Innovative option, as fresh dimsum’s always a better choice than those displayed on the trolley and being pushed around.

Stacks after stacks of dimsum for picking

You can opt for steamed fish slices with julienned ginger and chilli, served with their thick, special gravy, resembling Penang’s Lor Bak or Lor Mee’s gravy

Chinese tea in pot

Oh ya, something out of topic here. I’ve been in a ‘heated‘ debate with TallGal, ZMin, KYT, KCA and the lot, on the REAL custom of thanking someone when he/she pours for you by tapping your fingers. To clarify this matter, please click HERE. Any objections?

Pork Dumplings (Siew Mai), and Glutinous Rice (Lor Mai Kai)

Prawn Dumplings (Har Kau) and Chives Dumplings (9 Choi)

Economy Fried Noodles

Yam Cake (or is it?)

Other than serving dimsum, there is an additional stall serving chee cheong fun (rice noodles roll), fried noodles, and yam cakes (wu tau kou). The CCF was out of stock, so early in the morning. Tastewise? The morsels of dimsum was a paltry affair, pale in comparison to Ipoh’s offerings (obviously). The fried noodles was not impressive either, but the worst had to be the yam cake. Made from more flour than yam, the chunk was oily, tasteless, and offered small cubes of yams as consolation.

Char Siew Pau (BBQ Pork Buns)

Probably we were expecting too much. But fortunately, the Char Siew Pau was passable, and the dough was not of the stick-to-teeth kind.

Though slightly disappointed by the breakfast spread, we were shocked, or rather pleasantly surprised when it was time to foot the bill. Total for 4 pax = RM15 ONLY. That includes everything on the table. To prevent miscommunication, we asked again whether the sum covered the drinks? YES. The noodles and yam cakes? YES. Wow …. speechless. In Ipoh, RM15 can only get you 5 baskets of dimsum at most. Haha …..

We had dimsum AGAIN for breakfast on the next day, when 8 (!!!) others arrived on the second day. But more on that in later posts … For now, I’ll be packing yet again, this time venturing south to Johor Bahru for work purposes. Wish me safe journey ya? Unlike previous JB excursion in April (read about that HERE), this time we have to take the bus. Prepare for a ride, on the bumpy side!!!

Til this weekend, tata !!!

NEXT POST : Part 3 – The Largest Mailbox in Betong

Typical rules & regulations before entering the country

The queue at the Immigration Checkpoint is bearable on a weekday, but not on weekends and public holidays

Basic requirement before entering ??

1. International passport/border pass (a no-brainer)
2. Fill up an arrival form at the checkpoint, but pay RM2/person. The kind lady seated at the counter will perform her magically-rapid-fast hands trick and fill up one by one.
3. Exchanging your Ringgit to Thai Baht is NOT necessary, as most, if not all, shops accept payment in RM, for a RM1=10Baht rate. Except 7-11, where RM5=45Baht.
4. A crash course in Thai language is deemed UNnecessary as most vendors/hawkers/restaurant owners speak Malay, English or Chinese. No language barrier at all. Phew ….

In order to get your vehicle CLEARED, first you have to DE-CLEAR your car … =P

5. If you’re driving into the town (yup, you can drive to your heart’s content, bearing in mind you bring your driving licence along), photostat your car grant and get it certified by an officer at Air Panas police station in Pengkalan Hulu, OR if you’re not the owner of your vehicle, get a written attestation from the owner (ie. dad, mum, whoever) permitting you to drive over the border. Just don’t drive a stolen car, that’s all.

The roads in Betong

Once you’re through, drive to your heart’s content, and head straight for the town area. A straight path nonetheless, no twists and turns.

The famous clock tower of Betong town

Betong Merlin Hotel -5 Stars they ain’t, but it’s certainly one of the better ones in town

Delicate folding of a basic amenity … a touch of hospitality?

We stayed at Betong Merlin Hotel, situated on 33, Chayachaowalit Road. Turn right once you reach a 4-way traffic lights intersection with Sri Betong on your right. Then go straight, and take the 2nd left turn. Once you see Betong Merlin Plaza on your right, turn right into the small path right after the plaza. The hotel is the tall white building right behind the plaza.

Mandarin Betong Hotel – A touch of class, but at slightly premium rate of 1380 Baht/night. OK, not THAT expensive, but be prudent at times like this.

Our room has a queen-sized bed, attached bathroom with bathtub, TV, and basic amenities. Rate per night is 875 Baht/room for two. Reasonable, as we managed to squeeze 4 pax/room and still slept comfortably. =) Oh, and parking’s at the basement is FOC too.

Betong Mongkollit Tunnel

The Betong Mongkollit tunnel is situated in town area, a pretty short tunnel connecting to the south. The temple behind is an abandoned building named Hilltop Yala Shrine (correct me if I’m wrong, anyone?).

Is there a light at the end of the tunnel? …

A closer view of the hilltop shrine, with locals performing morning dance routine

Somehow, the passengers are hanging on for dear life … haha …

Funnily enough, not many public transportation can be seen roaming, with the exception of the small trucks (pic above) not unlike Chiang Mai’s Songthaew, or Bangkok’s Tuk-Tuk. No buses was in sight, nor taxis.

The majestic clock tower at night … OK, so my HP camera sucks. Sue me! =P

A corner shop at a backlane selling sweet desserts (tong sui)

Enough about the town, let’s see some food ya? Hmm, let’s start with what I had for tea time ALONE on the first day, as KYT, LaughingGal, and TallGal were fast asleep in the middle of the day. Hmmm …. Guess the drive took its toll? Or they probably learnt a tips or two from the Lyrical one when it comes to travelling and sleeping. LOL.

Nifty hands at work, scooping bowls after bowls of tong sui

Oh, Chinese style tong sui (sweet soup)in Betong? Not surprising, given the demographic distribution of Chinese citizens in Betong. This auntie speaks good Mandarin, fortunately. But UN-fortunately, mine sucks. Big time. But still, conveying my views and opinions on food works on any platform, be it English, Chinese or even Thai language. =P

Sweet banana desserts, a Thai specialty

Weird combination of ginkgo nuts, quail’s eggs, and chicken (or duck?) eggs tong sui

My bowl of Bubur Cha-Cha (RM1/10Baht) – Dirt cheap?

The bubur cha-cha with lots of sago, red beans, sweet potatoes and yam cubes was satisfying. Served warm in a porcelain bowl, the flavour reminded me of Malaysia’s version, with the exception of red beans added for good measure. Slightly sweet, and salty at the same time, this bowl of sweet delight is reasonably tagged at 10Baht ONLY.

I was curious about the ginkgo tong sui with eggs, therefore that very night we raided the same shop and I got my fix of the mysterious concoction. Pleasantly surprised that the combination works wonders, resembling the addition of quail’s egg into Lin Chee Kang (a popular Chinese sweet soup). The abundance of quail’s eggs and chicken egg provided much of a scare for health freak, as the cholesterol content of that bowl may exceed your average daily intake! At RM3/30 Baht per bowl, no less.

Auntie Yoong frying her crunchy bits …

That same evening, on the way back to my room, I passed by a stall and got a whiff of deep-fried bananas. For RM1/10 Baht, you get a whole load of deep-fried bananas sprinkled with sesame seeds, fried yams, and sweet potato balls. Coincidentally, Auntie Yoong has connection to Malaysia, as her parents are from Penang, while her husband’s are from Ipoh!!! Yeah! She assisted a lot in providing directions, and recommendations, and made our stay a tad more pleasant that it already was.

A million THANKS, to Auntie Yoong and her husband. Her shop’s on Sukkayang Road, a road branching north from the clock tower in Betong town.

Wanna know in what way she helped us? Stay tuned for later instalments …

Read also :

Part 2 – The Dimsum Affair

Part 3 – The Largest Mailbox

Part 4 – Piyamit Tunnel & Hot Spring

Part 5 – The Temple and The Curry Meal

Updated (31/7/2009) – Part 6 – Krua Samui Authentic Thai Restaurant