Story of A Tenacious Popiah Seller @ Canning Garden, Ipoh
May 29, 2011 | 8,469 views
It pains me to put today’s post into words. To recount the sheer determination, passion and tenacity that drove and still drives this 74 years-old uncle for more than half a century. To witness with a heavy heart how his hands shook while daintily spreading the mélange of julienned ingredients and sauces on the precariously laid out, freshly steamed popiah* skin on the RM200 slab of wooden board.
(*Popiah is a popular Chinese snack of fresh spring rolls with julienned vegetables and fritters, sometimes with strands of egg omelette and/or crabmeat/dried shrimps, then lightly brushed with chili sauce and sweet sauce)
No words can actually describe this utter admiration that develops into pure respect for what he does best for 54 years (since 1957; coincidentally that was the year we were declared independent from external colonization), and still counting. The laborious hours he spent standing under the scorching hot sun, merely shaded by the canopy that covers barely more than his bike that he has been relying upon for more than a decade now.
Yes, dear Ipoh folks, and the interested readers from wherever you are. Let me share this story on what could possibly be the most legendary popiah seller in all of Ipoh …
He started way back in 1957. He has moved from place to place since then, and now he’s permanently parked at a back lane in Canning Garden of Ipoh. The locals fondly recognize him as the uncle who sells popiah from a mobile stall. Nobody even cares (or dares?) to call him by name. From what I gathered, his surname is Leow. It’s no rocket science really, since the name’s printed on his bike.
Another patient customer related his story to us. He has been eating his popiah since he was 19 years old. And now he has to be in his 40’s. To him, no other popiah comes close. Never mind the uncle’s temperamental nature, which has toned down considerably, according to this man.
We were the first to arrive. Uncle decided to open later than usual on this hot Saturday afternoon; about 3.30pm. Usually, he would be up and running by 2.30pm or so. Nobody dares to query him why, or throw tantrums. We patiently watched him setting up his stall. It took him a good 20 minutes or so, and he made sure everything was in place before he started asking for orders.
If you’re in a rush, or embedded with an impatient gene, then by all means … walk away. No queue numbers, no rushing, no complaining and no temper, please.
If there’s a person who can rightly throw one, it’s the Uncle. After all, he’s not known for being courteous, patient, warm nor chatty. So don’t push your luck. Be an obedient observer, and wait until he asks for your order.
At any one time, he can only prepare 12 rolls of popiah, at most. He grumbled about how he had to change his wooden board, which cost him about RM200. That’s 100 pieces of popiah at retail price, in case you’re wondering.
And watching him in action, it’s almost poetry in motion. Slowly he will lay the pieces of soft, steamed popiah skin on the board. Then slowly he reaches out to the classic melamine mugs of sauces; a sweet, bean sauce aka ‘tim cheong’ and the other chili sauce that packed a rapturous, acerbic punch. Then grabbing a few pieces of fresh lettuce, he tears them by hand and scatters them, but not before scooping generous portions of julienned yambean in a boiling pot of suspiciously lardy broth onto the popiah skin.
The uniformed thin strands of egg omelette and cucumber were proof of how he never neglects the smaller details. And the mash of crab meat on a plate elevated by a single block of ice (to preserve the cool temperature) lifted his popiah to a premium status indefinitely. At RM2.50 per piece, or RM2.00 each for two pieces and above, you can’t help but wonder why he charges slightly more than the others (about RM1.70-RM1.80 per piece, in case you’re wondering).
But for the whole of 30 minutes or so we were standing there, the feeling sank in. The lines on this man’s face, the bulging veins on his weary legs, and the introvert aura portrayed in a nonchalant manner can only mean one thing. He has been through so much. More than 50 years in business, and he still rides on his bike, operates on his own at a back alley, and his eyesight has deteriorated to an extent that his vision is affected.
He himself admitted to this, as there was a lady with us who asked him; “Do you still recognize me, uncle? You used to drive around my neighbourhood back then and sold your popiah from your bike.”
To which he retaliated in his signature sarcasm mode; “I can’t even see the road in front of me properly, how am I supposed to recognize your face?”
Though I don’t hide the fact that I actually prefer Kong Heng’s popiah to his, but if I have to choose for ONE single popiah stall worthy of an accolade, this Uncle wins hands down. Not for the taste, nor the hygiene factor, and definitely NOT for his hospitality.
But more for the legacy and his incomparable story than anything else …
“So, has he touched your life, yet?”
Canning Garden Popiah Stall
Back alley between Jalan Perlis and Jalan RCM Rayan, off Jalan Keliling,
Canning Garden, 31400 Ipoh, Perak, Malaysia.
Opens only on Saturday and Sunday, from about 2 to 3pm onwards, until 8pm.
Google Map to this Popiah stall
GPS Coordinates : 4.608652,101.115986
*His son also operates from a stall that opens at night in Nam Kew Restaurant in town, on Jalan Raja Musa Aziz (Anderson Road).
i’ve heard about it but i never bother to try. I heard that if you order 2-3 rolls, he don’t even wanna layan u. bad attitude spoil the best of food
[Reply]
J2Kfm Reply:
May 30th, 2011 at 10:58 am
Can… you can order 3 rolls, no problem. Another thing was, he was not very receptive to people asking for separate packing of popiah … let’s say you order 3 rolls and want them to be packed in more than one packet, he will retaliate by insisting that you’ll be charged extra.
Just, his style.
[Reply]
The best popiah in Ipoh! Superb !!
[Reply]
I always loved stalls that are steeped in history, there are so many stories to tell!
[Reply]
J2Kfm Reply:
May 30th, 2011 at 10:59 am
Me too. These stalls would be the ones that will be sorely missed once the proprietor decides to end the business.
[Reply]
touched for sure
[Reply]
i missed his popiah for more than 10 years.
[Reply]
Eh he still around? I thought he was missing already coz I haven’t been seeing him for a long, long time. Haha.
[Reply]
J2Kfm Reply:
May 30th, 2011 at 11:04 am
He is still there. At the junction near to the church.
[Reply]
Now this is what I love about Asian food! A man dedicating his life to make something that, at first sight, seem so simple yet it’s extremely tasty, to me that’s what true workmanship and handicraft is all about… Great post
[Reply]
J2Kfm Reply:
May 30th, 2011 at 11:04 am
Thanks TJG. The passion goes into the food, naturally. Hence the taste never go out of style.
[Reply]
He definitely makes one of, if not the best popiah in town … but …
A lot of people can’t afford the time to queue up, too bad I’m one of them. Worst still when you queue, he’s busy with 100 pieces of popiahs before yours.
How I wish he could be selling it from a stall in a kopitiam now. 50+ years already, he could’ve bought himself a corner lot. Hire a few helpers to churn out 24 or 36 pieces in one go. A lot more people get to enjoy his great popiah.
[Reply]
J2Kfm Reply:
May 30th, 2011 at 11:03 am
Yeah… to watch in much disbelief at how he took the time to prepare the 12-15 pieces at once,
you MUST have patience. And time.
[Reply]
well, this uncle is probably a rich man who has seen all his kids thru university! too bad with the trend these days, none of his kids might want to take over the business. Shame really…
[Reply]
J2Kfm Reply:
May 30th, 2011 at 11:03 am
His son is operating from another stall, that opens at night only in town. Though I personally haven’t tried that yet.
[Reply]
I never know he has such bad attitude. Of course, given a choice, I still prefer Kong Heng popiah. But this old uncle popiah isn’t that bad either.
[Reply]
J2Kfm Reply:
May 30th, 2011 at 11:02 am
Indeed. Kong Heng’s popiah are packed with more ingredients, juicier but less crunchy fritters and crabmeat compared to this uncle’s. But what I like about Kong Heng’s popiah is that they offer fried popiah too, so you get to taste different types at once.
[Reply]
NKOTB Reply:
May 31st, 2011 at 8:42 pm
Yup, you’re right! The only thing that I don’t like about Kong Heng is before you could settle down, everyone is just coming to you to take orders… basically there’s no way for you to think and breath. hahahaha… but who cares, I just love their popiah!!
[Reply]
J2Kfm Reply:
May 31st, 2011 at 9:29 pm
Haha… that was then, now no longer. I don’t even see the popiah stall walking over to tables now. Only the wantan mee and satay stall.
Tham Reply:
May 31st, 2011 at 9:34 pm
Actually, the original popiah in Kong Heng left long ago (read many years ago) to Kong Meng (Kong Meng is closed already) and the owner actually met an accident and stopped selling popiah. That was already quite some years ago. So the one in Kong Meng is actually not the original proprietor but the present one is still better than most others in town. I think the present popiah seller in Kong Heng sells their fare in Pasar Malams too.
J2Kfm Reply:
May 31st, 2011 at 10:05 pm
Hi Tham.
I don’t know much about the accident, but the lady who used to sell popiah and laksa at Kong Heng (probably the original one) is my friend’s aunt. Hence, we used to eat popiah there FOC.
But then again, this new aunty who took over produces almost the exact same taste, and till today, I still believe she makes the best in Ipoh.
nice post there Motormouth, im touched by the story… would like to meet this uncle one day to try his popiahs
[Reply]
J2Kfm Reply:
May 30th, 2011 at 11:01 am
Thanks! Just be aware of the long wait and the flaring tempers. Both his and the customers.
[Reply]
To me this is the best popiah i ever had..he take orders no matter how little or how much u order..just that u really got to wait patiently for him to make every batch..being in KL now makes me crave for his popiah..no one can beat this uncle popiah’s popiah..lol..but when i’m back in ipoh i rarely get to catch him when he’s open..better luck next time i guess
[Reply]
J2Kfm Reply:
May 30th, 2011 at 11:01 am
Yeah… Sat and Sun 3-8pm. Good luck and bring abook or something.
[Reply]
Bought once. Had to wait under the hot sun for a long time. Also please look at his fingernails, dirty and not cut. Won’t buy again.
[Reply]
Have been always wanted to try but it’s hard to catch him as his business hour is not fixed…. not only his hands and face wrinkled, there was one time I drove past and saw him in torn white shirt…
[Reply]
J2Kfm Reply:
May 30th, 2011 at 10:22 pm
Yeah … kinda heart wrenching right? Knowing that he still goes at it at his age, and probably won’t stop until he meets his maker.
[Reply]
jason Reply:
May 31st, 2011 at 11:01 am
He himself is a legacy i guess
[Reply]
Don’t bring kids along, don’t ask how long it will be before its you’re turn, wait patiently until he asks you for your order otherwise be prepared for a mouthful of sarcasm!
On the flipside, if you’re a good and obedient customer, you’ll be rewarded with one of the best popiahs ever!
[Reply]
J2Kfm Reply:
May 30th, 2011 at 10:21 pm
Haha …. well said, Eric. Just some hints and tips from an old timer, I presume?
[Reply]
I love this popiah?
[Reply]
The popiah uncle definately has touched my life. I cant remember the age I started eating his popiah, but I was definately less than 10 years old. Now I’m 33 and I’m craving to eat his popiah. For the past 3 years whenever I’m back in Ipoh, I always missed it. His son stall is very good as well when he was operating in Wah Nam.
[Reply]
J2Kfm Reply:
June 22nd, 2011 at 9:09 am
His son now still operates from the shop Nam Kew, from what I heard. He used to sell from the coffee shop in town; opposite the previous Ocean (now the Store).
[Reply]
i stay opposite his house.. i definitely can agree with you abt his temper~ early morning can hear him @#$%^!@# ppl alredi~
[Reply]
[...] I do miss the crunchy fried popiah stuffed with various julienned ingredients, then served with a dollop of chili sauce on the side. Though Mum was not impressed with the omission of the previous auntie’s signature ‘tim cheong’ (sweet sauce). The fresh one was good too; still packed with juicy fillings albeit not stuffed with crunchy fritters or crab meat like say …. the grumpy Canning Garden uncle’s version. [...]
Thanks for the beautiful article on the popiah man. Being in the States, I sure miss my Ipoh hawker food. Whereabouts is he now? Is he still in Canning Garden, pass the church and under a tree by the junction? I think there is a Pizza Hut around there too.
[Reply]
J2Kfm Reply:
October 4th, 2011 at 9:29 pm
Hi DeeVegas
He’s at the back lane, facing the road leading to the Pizza Hut in Ipoh Garden South. So you’re on the right track somehow.
[Reply]
i used to eat popiah from this uncle when he comes around Wood Avenue in Canning Garden. i left Ipoh in 1976. i fondly remember the taste and wished i will be fortunate to find him. Grumpy or not, i will find his stall this holidays.
[Reply]
J2Kfm Reply:
December 10th, 2011 at 9:21 pm
Yes, nv. Sometimes, places like this SHOULD be in the history books and food guides, not the commercialized ones.
[Reply]
[...] Hong Kee’s “Shat Keh Mah” (and Egg Tarts) – One Word; Egg-cellent. 2. Canning Garden Popiah Uncle – Weekends-Only (Grumpy) Fling 3. Kacang Puteh Story – And There’s Nothing WHITE [...]
I always go n buy after my taekwondo sessions near the church in the 90s
My final day in Ipoh .. Till next yr
I am so gg to find him !!
[Reply]
There was once i saw a lady in a black merc who wanted to order only one piece of popiah and to her amazement, the uncle shot back “one tiew mm mai ke” (i don’t sell only one piece)..embarrased by the response she drove off immediately.
[Reply]
J2Kfm Reply:
January 12th, 2012 at 9:37 am
Haha …. yes, he and his attitude. But then again, why one and not two pieces? I think he sells minimum 2 pcs, and stated that on the signboard at his stall.
[Reply]
[...] popiah (both the wet and fried versions) compared to the others. And yes, I have visited the old uncle in Canning Garden, the Bercham popiah stall by the field, and even the renowned Taiping [...]
[...] I don’t know why but the famous hawkers are unusually grumpy in Ipoh. Case in point? Read THIS, THIS and THIS. And you can add Macy’s Ipoh Chicken Kuey Teow brothers to the [...]
Does this uncle still selling nowadays?
[Reply]
J2Kfm Reply:
January 24th, 2013 at 1:30 pm
Sadly, no Shillna. He has stopped selling popiah already.
[Reply]